3 day Grossarl valley hut to hut hike accessible from Salzburg

This 3 day hut to hut hike in Austria’s Grossarl valley (also known as the valley of the mountain huts – Tal der Almen in German) is one of my favourites so far. I did it in mid-June with three adult friends; no kids, and I’d recommend it to anyone.

The weather surprised us with (very warm!) sunshine and clear skies in mid-June, the trails were quiet, and the food was amazing… Dumplings, cheese boards, and kaiserschmarrn to name just a few of my favourites.

We started by hopping on a fast train from Salzburg, then caught a bus deep into the valley to begin hiking. Three days later, after alpine passes, sparkling lakes, ridge walks, and some of the friendliest mountain huts I’ve stayed in, we finished in the village of Kleinarl.

This post will give you the full lowdown on our exact route, what to expect, where to stay, what to eat, and how to book.

If you’re an adult looking for a proper hiking adventure in Austria, this one ticks all the boxes. And if you’re after something gentler for families, don’t worry; I’ve got some more kid-friendly hut hikes in this same gorgeous region coming soon.

Planning this hut to hut hike: logistics

About this route

This is a 3 day alpine route through Austria’s stunning Grossarl Valley – also known as the valley of mountain huts. It’s packed with sweeping views, mountain lakes, friendly huts, and some truly excellent food.

You start by taking a train and bus from Salzburg, hike hut to hut for three days, then finish in the village of Kleinarl or Wagrain before heading back to Salzburg.

• ⌛Duration: 3 days, 2 nights 
• 🥾 Route: Hüttschlag Karteis bus stop → Tappenkarseehütte → Ellmaualm → Kleinarl
• ⛰️ Distance & terrain: 3 hiking days with some steep climbs and descents, but very doable for fit adults
• 🧭 Trail markings: Well signed throughout with clear Austrian signage
• 🍽️ Food: Excellent and frequent; though you’ll need to pack lunch on Day 1
• 🚶‍♀️ Crowds: Quiet, especially compared to the Dolomites!

You could tweak the route if needed; there are plenty of huts offering accommodation and food in this area and lots of variants if you wanted to make it shorter or longer.

Why this one’s for grown-ups, not kids

This isn’t a technical or extreme hike; but it is a proper three day mountain adventure with sustained elevation gain and long distances each day.

It’s best for adults who are confident on alpine trails and up for a challenge.

If you’re travelling with kids, I’ve got some family-friendly hike options in the same region coming soon.

• 🚫 Not suitable for younger children or new hikers
• ✅ Great for adults or strong teens who want a rewarding, rustic and culturally Austrian hut to hut experience

Getting there and away

To the start:

• 🚆 Train from Salzburg to St Johann im Pongau (book this on Rail Europe)
• 🚌 Bus 540 (direction Hüttschlag) and get off at Hüttschlag Karteis bus stop (past Hüttschlag village)
• ⏱️ Total journey: ~2 hours from Salzburg

Coming from the UK or Northern Europe? Consider taking the overnight train to Salzburg!

From the finish:

• 🥾 Finish in Kleinarl (or detour to the Grafenbergbahn summit station and take cable car down to Wagrain if you want to save your knees some downhill) Note: The Grafenberg cable car does not run every day; check ahead here if that’s your plan. If it’s not running I recommend hiking to Kleinarl instead!
• 🚌 Bus 530 (direction St. Johann im Pongau Postamt) from Kleinarl or Wagrain to St Johann im Pongau train station
• 🚆 Train back to Salzburg

In the summer months, all overnight guests in Salzburg state receive the Guest Mobility Ticket; a free pass valid from the first day of your stay until the day of check-out which includes unlimited travel on city and regional buses and most trains across the province of Salzburg (Salzburgerland).

You’ll receive it at check-in in digital or paper form, or ask your accommodation for it in advance so you can hop on straightaway; even from the airport or train station. It’s a simple, eco-friendly way to travel, and covers everything you’ll need to reach Karteis for your hike and back again to Salzburg; no need to buy tickets.

Where to stay before and after

🏡 Where to stay in Kleinarl or Wagrain

You can finish your hike in Kleinarl or Wagrain (depending on which route you take on Day 3), so you can choose either village for a well-earned rest. It’s a 15 minute bus ride between the two.

Kleinarl is smaller and quieter, while Wagrain has a few more restaurants, hotels, and even a thermal pool for tired legs. Both are great options with mountain views and cosy alpine charm.

🛏️ Where to stay in Grossarl or Hüttschlag

If you’d rather not travel from Salzburg on the same day as your hike, spending a night in Grossarl or Hüttschlag is a relaxing option. You’ll be close to the trailhead at Karteis (accessible easily by bus 540), and it gives you a more leisurely start in the morning. Here are a few nice places nearby:

Booking the mountain huts

If you’ve never stayed in a mountain hut before, it’s worth knowing a few things before you get there – like how meals work, hut etiquette, and why you’ll need a sleeping bag liner! Check out my Beginner’s Guide to Mountain Huts for all the essentials so you can arrive feeling prepared and ready to enjoy the experience.

Huts book up quickly in summer, so you’ll need to reserve early, especially if you’re after a private room (recommended for a good nights’ sleep!). Here are the contact details for each overnight stay:

Our Komoot Route

Which map to bring?

Although personally I use Komoot for navigation for all my hikes, and the route is well signed, I always bring a paper map as backup. It’s especially helpful for route planning, checking altitude, or if your phone dies mid-hike.

The best one for this trip is the Niedere Tauern I (45/1): Topographische Karte (Alpenvereinskarte) which covers the entire route in detail. You can buy it online here.

Day 1: Karteis to Tappenkarseehütte

After arriving by train and bus from Salzburg, we started hiking from the Karteis bus stop—beyond the main village of Hüttschlag. The trail climbs steadily at first on road and then through alpine meadows up to the Karteistörl pass, where you’re rewarded with your first big views of the surrounding peaks.

From the pass, it’s a gentle descent towards Tappenkarsee, a deep-blue lake cupped in a dramatic bowl of mountains. The Tappenkarseehütte sits on the near side of the lake, perched on the hillside with a sweeping view across the water.

Key stats
🥾 Distance: approx. 9.5 km
⛰️ Elevation: ~1,130 m up
⏱️ Time: 4–5 hours walking
🍽️ Food: No huts en route – bring lunch/snacks

We grabbed pre-made sandwiches at Salzburg train station, which was necessary, as there are no lunch stops between the bus stop and the hut. The trail itself is quiet and scenic, with cows, wildflowers, and the sound of rushing streams.

The Tappenkarseehütte is a charming wooden hut with red-shuttered windows and a backdrop of dramatic mountains behind and the blue lake in front. We loved sitting on the sunny terrace enjoying a well earned beer and an excellent dinner.

Inside, it’s warm and welcoming, with bunk-style dorms and warm showers (as in most huts, you pay a few Euros for a token for a short amount of hot water). We didn’t swim in the lake because although it looked amazing, it was a bit too chilly in the late afternoon. On a warmer day, I’d definitely pack a swimsuit though!

Day 2: Tappenkarseehütte to Ellmaualm

We left the Tappenkarseehütte after a good breakfast, walking alongside the lake in the morning light. Looking back, the hut looked postcard-perfect nestled beneath the cliffs. The trail starts gently, passing the rustic Tappenkarseealm (which serves food, but wasn’t open when we passed by first thing in the morning), before climbing steeply and steadily towards the Draugsteintörl.

Key stats
🥾 Distance: approx. 13 km
⛰️ Elevation: ~800 m up, 700 m down
⏱️ Time: 5–6 hours walking
🍽️ Food: Filzmoosalm is perfectly placed for lunch, Weissalm and Loosbühelalm are also en route for drinks/snacks

The climb to Draugsteintörl was steep but satisfying, with wildflowers lining the path and views opening up behind us. From the top, it was a quick drop into a wide green basin, followed by a short uphill to the Filzmoossattel. We reached Filzmoosalm just in time for lunch: local sausages (filled with cheese!) and a wonderful cheese board, along with a big cold drink.

The afternoon route was gentler, winding across grassy hillsides and through wooded section past a couple of mountain huts; Loosbühelalm and Weissalm (where we got fresh Krapfen – a sort of home made doughnut with jam) before arriving at Ellmaualm in the late afternoon.

We loved Ellmaualm. It’s small, wooden, and full of character, with cows being milked in the barn beneath the sleeping quarters, chickens pecking about, and the smell of hay drifting through the air.

There’s a sunny terrace with wooden loungers, and we spent the early evening stretched out in deckchairs with a cold drink in hand. The room was super cosy and rustic, but comfortable. No showers here, but a lockable bathroom with a good basin for a flannel wash was perfect.

Day 3: Ellmaualm to Kleinarl

We left Ellmaualm early after a good breakfast, as the cows were being milked in the barn. This was our final day, and it packed in a lot; woodland paths, a ridge walk, hidden tarns, a summit, and one of the best lunches of the trip.

Key stats
🥾 Distance: approx. 12.5 km
⛰️ Elevation: ~360 m up, 1,200 m down
⏱️ Time: 5–6 hours walking
🍽️ Food: Kleinarlerhütte open for lunch; or if you’re heading to the the top of Grafenberg when the cable car is running; there’s a few places to eat there.

We started by ascending to the Trögseen (Trög ponds); a pair of alpine tarns surrounded by meadows. Too cold to swim early in the morning, but a peaceful spot to take a break.

From there, we climbed steadily to the summit of Gründegg, where we were treated to big views over the valley. The path from here along the Penkkopf ridge was a little narrow in places but not difficult and was quite spectacular. From here, you’ve got options:

• 🥾 Finish in Kleinarl: A long descent through forest and pastures brings you into the village.
• 🚠 Carry on along the ridge to reach the summit station of the Grafenberg cable car: If it’s running, you then take the gondola down to Wagrain (check the timetable! It doesn’t open every day).

We took the first option, and headed down to Kleinarl, as the Grafenbergbahn wasn’t running the day we were there.

Our lunch stop was the Kleinarlerhütte, tucked into a clearing the the trees high above Kleinarl. The food was brilliant; quite a bit more sophisticated than the more simple menus on the rest of the hike, and lots of day trippers who’d come up for the day on foot and by e-bike eating on the terrace.

We ended our hike in Kleinarl and hopped on a short bus ride to Wagrain, where we checked into Hotel Sonne. If you have time and weather on your side, head for the outdoor pool to soak tired legs!

FAQs & Practical Tips

Is it hard?

It’s definitely a hike for confident walkers; but it’s not extreme. Expect fairly long days (especially if you stop to eat local delicacies a lot, like we did!), steady elevation, and some steep and long climbs. If you’re fit and used to walking, you’ll be absolutely fine; and the views make all the ascent worth it.

How’s the navigation?

Really good and easy. The Austrian trail network is excellently marked with colour-coded signs and regular waymarkers. We used Komoot as a backup (and to check timings), and had a paper map, but barely needed either.

What should I pack?

You’ll want to pack light. Essentials include:

• 🧥 Layers: thin fleece, waterproof jacket
• 👣 Worn in hiking shoes/boots
• 🧦 Hut slippers or sandals
• 💧 Water bottle + snacks
• 😎 Sunglasses + suncream
• 🛏️ Sleeping bag liner
• 🧽 Wash kit + quick-dry towel

For the full list, check out my Hut to Hut Packing Guide.

When’s the best time to go?

• 🗓️ Mid-June to late September is ideal
• 🚫 Early June may still have snowfields (especially on passes like Draugsteintörl)
• 🎢 Cable cars (like Grafenberg) may only run regularly from July; check ahead!

Is this 3 day Grossarl Valley hut hike for you?

If you’re after a proper mountain adventure; with views, challenge, Austrian charm, and a few cheese dumplings and homemade doughnuts along the way, this route ticks all the boxes. It’s tough enough to feel like an achievement, but accessible if you’ve got good fitness and are happy walking for 5–7 hours a day.

The huts were a real highlight: one classic and bustling, the other tiny and rustic. And the trails were uncrowded, beautifully maintained, and surrounded by classic alpine scenery.

One of the best things? How easy it is to reach. Salzburg is incredibly well connected by flights and trains from all over Europe, and you can go from city coffee to mountain trail in a single morning.

We took a morning train from Salzburg, followed by a bus deep into the valley; and still had plenty of time for the hike to our first hut that same afternoon. No car needed, and no complex transfers.

And this area is full of possibilities. There are so many mountain huts in the Grossarltal region that you can easily tweak this into a longer route, a shorter one, or something family-friendly. I’ve got posts coming soon with suggestions for exactly that. The only thing you’ll need to do is plan ahead and book your beds; the rest will fall into place.

Where to next?

Looking for more alpine adventures or family-friendly hikes? Here are a few posts to check out next:

• 🌲2 night hut to hut hike in Austria: Around the Bischofsmütze Another stunning loop through alpine meadows and dramatic cliffs in the Dachstein region, perfect for a weekend escape for adults.
• 🌿3 Day Hiking Itinerary in France: A Challenging Adventure from Modane to Briançon on the GR5 – A challenging GR5 section – strong adult hikers only – crossing the French Alps with wild scenery, big climbs, and remote mountain charm.
• 🥾 Family-friendly hut to hut hiking near Salzburg – a gentle 3-day route with wonderful views but shorter distances for little legs
• 🚲 Cycling Austria’s Tauernradweg – a gorgeous riverside ride from mountains to lakes
• 🎒 My ultimate hut to hut packing list – everything you actually need, and nothing you don’t
• ⛰️ Hut to Hut Hiking with Kids | Real Advice & Best Routes in the Alps – everything you need to know to start hut hiking with your whole family!