In this blog post, I’ll share everything you need to know about hiking a 3 day stretch of the GR5, the long distance route across the Alps in France.
This route, from Modane to Briançon, combines stunning alpine scenery, charming mountain refuges, and the joy of travelling flight-free from the UK.
I’ll cover:
- The logistics of getting there
- Booking accommodation
- Daily distances
- What to expect on the trail
- Tips to help you make the most of your adventure.
While this hike is challenging and geared towards seasoned hikers, this guide will provide the confidence and practical tips you need to embark on this challenging and rewarding journey!
Overview of the GR5 Hiking Route in the French Alps
The GR5, or “Grande Randonnée 5,” is a long distance hiking trail stretching from the North Sea in the Netherlands all the way to the Mediterranean Sea in France. It’s renowned for its breath taking alpine scenery, charming villages, and well-marked paths.
One of its most celebrated sections cuts through the French Alps, offering a mix of challenging ascents, panoramic views, and welcoming mountain refuges. In this article, I’ll take you through a wonderful 3-day stretch of the GR5 from Modane to Briançon – a route perfect for a long weekend adventure.
What makes this stretch even more appealing is its accessibility from the UK without the need for flights. The trains from London via Paris to Modane work seamlessly, offering a stress-free and eco-friendly travel option. It’s a perfect example of how you can enjoy an alpine hiking adventure while keeping your carbon footprint low.
Logistics: 3 Day Hiking Itinerary in France on the GR5
Travel to Modane and back from Briançon
Getting to Modane from London is surprisingly straightforward, making this GR5 hiking route accessible and eco-friendly.
We left London on a morning Eurostar. Once in Paris Gare du Nord, we hopped on the metro (Paris underground) for a few stops to the Gare de Lyon and boarded the TGV for a scenic journey through the French countryside and into the Alps, arriving in Modane in around four hours.
We spent the night at a hotel just a few minutes’ walk from the train station, ensuring we were ready to set off bright and early in the morning.
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Using Rail Europe is the best way to book your train tickets. It connects to multiple train operator ticketing systems and you can use Rail Europe wherever you live.
There’s more information in this blog post specifically about train travel to the Alps!
For your return journey, you can enjoy the magic of overnight travel on the train from Briançon to Paris Austerlitz. Departing around 8 pm, this train allows you to finish your hike in Briançon, enjoy a well-deserved celebratory dinner, and then hop on board for a comfortable overnight journey back to the French capital.
If you book well in advance, a first-class sleeper compartment can be excellent value.
Travelling first class on the overnight train also grants you access to a really great shower / bathroom area free of charge upon arrival at Paris Austerlitz station. Here, you’re provided with a towel and toiletries and you can enjoy a full shower and refresh before breakfast, ready to continue your journey on the Eurostar back to London.
The showers are in the “Espace Services” next to the toilets opposite platform 4 – you have to show your first class ticket to gain entry!
From Paris Austerlitz, jump on the metro to the Gare du Nord and check in for your Eurostar to London. It’s a seamless combination of environmentally friendly rail adventures that takes you to and from the exact start and end points of your hike without the hassle of airports and airport transfers.
I use Rail Europe to book both the Eurostar and the trains in France. The Rail Europe website will automatically suggest suitable connection times between trains.
💡TIP: Buy Paris metro tickets from the café on board the Eurostar to avoid the queues and touts at the Gare du Nord!
Booking Accommodation
Accommodation along the GR5 hiking route typically involves staying in mountain refuges or small guesthouses. For this stretch, you’ll need to book a hotel in Modane for the first night – there are a variety of hotels near the station; we booked the Hotel Les Voyageurs, which was simple but good value.
👉 Book Hotel Les Voyageurs here
Your first hiking stop is the Refuge du Mont Thabor. You can book and pay for the Refuge du Mont Thabor online via their website, making it easy to secure your spot in advance.
For the second night you’ll need accommodation in the charming hamlet of Plampinet (or nearby). Plampinet is accessible by road, so there are a few little hostel type options here. We stayed at L’auberge La Cleida where we took the half board option. It was a simple, charming, very French place to stay!
👉 Book L’auberge La Cleida here
If your French is a bit rusty, don’t worry – most hosts are used to welcoming international hikers. Be sure to book well in advance, especially during peak hiking season (July and August), as spaces fill up quickly.
Daily Distances
- Day 1: Modane to Refuge du Mont Thabor – 15.2 km, elevation gain 1,440 m.
- Day 2: Refuge du Mont Thabor to Plampinet – 20.7 km, elevation gain 690 m, elevation loss 1,710 m.
- Day 3: Plampinet to Briançon – 26.5 km, elevation gain 1,140 m, elevation loss 1,420 m.
This is a challenging hike and not suitable for children. While it’s not technical, the distances are long, and the elevation gains are demanding, requiring a very good level of fitness, stamina, strength and preparation.
Komoot Route
Day 1: Modane to the Refuge du Mont Thabor (15.2 km)
Our adventure began in Modane, a small town nestled in the Maurienne Valley.
We set off early in the morning at 7:30, as there was a storm warning for later in the day. It was fine and sunny when we started, but as the day progressed and we approached the Refuge du Mont Thabor, the clouds rolled in, and it began to rain.
Hiking in late June, we encountered quite a lot of unmelted snow near the refuge, which we had to hike and slide over – a fun but slightly challenging twist to the day.
The route was relentlessly uphill, with steady ascents through a mix of lush forests and open alpine meadows. However, as we climbed higher, the effort was rewarded as the panorama unfolded, offering breath taking views of the surrounding peaks.
Upon reaching the Refuge du Mont Thabor, we were greeted by the welcome warmth of a wood-burning stove in the main dining area. The room had plenty of drying racks for our wet coats and gear, and it was quite chilly, so we were very grateful for our down jackets.
That afternoon, the storm rolled through with lightning and thunder, making it an exciting place to watch the weather unfold.
We were very glad not to be out in the storm, as lightning strikes are a serious risk in the mountains, particularly at higher elevations, and strong winds can make navigation perilous. Being warm and sheltered in the refuge was a delicious comfort as the lightning flashed outside!
Day 2: Refuge du Mont Thabor to Plampinet (20.7 km)
Our second day began with a descent from the refuge before reaching the Col de la Vallée Étroite, a mountain pass at an altitude of 2,438 metres, located at the foot of Mont Thabor.
The name “Étroite” translates to “narrow” in English, and this historic pass was once part of the Maginot Line – a line of defensive fortifications built between 1928 and 1940 to protect France’s eastern borders. Today, the area is peaceful, and soldiers are long gone, replaced by hikers enjoying the alpine beauty.
A cross marks the pass, and further on we passed a small lake right on the edge of the hiking trail. With little wind, the surrounding mountains reflected perfectly in its waters, creating a serene and photogenic spot.
Just beyond the lake, the trail became slightly unclear for a short stretch where we needed to cross a stream, and it wasn’t immediately obvious where to ford. Early in the season, the snowmelt made the stream deep and wide, so we took off our boots and socks to cross. The water was glacially cold, and it was an invigorating (albeit freezing) experience.
After this, we reached the Granges de la Vallée Étroite, the only inhabited village in the French part of the valley. This picturesque hamlet boasts two refuges, public fountains, a bar-restaurant, and a small chapel. It’s a delightful place to pause for a drink or snack. Interestingly, the hamlet feels distinctly Italian, reflecting the valley’s history of once belonging to Italy before becoming part of France in 1947.
From Granges, the trail climbed steadily up the side of the valley through dense forest, eventually emerging above the treeline. Here, the Rois Mages (Three Kings) range came into view – three distinct peaks extending from north to south, overlooking the eastern bank of the Vallée Étroite and forming part of the French-Italian border. The panoramic views were breath taking and well worth the effort of the climb.
We continued onwards, passing the busy but spectacular Lac Chavillon, a magnificent alpine lake popular with day trippers. From here, we left the people behind again and the trail descended gradually into the Clarée Valley, where Plampinet is located.
Plampinet, an extremely picturesque hamlet situated on the banks of the crystal-clear Clarée River, has a wonderfully remote and tranquil feel. The village is dotted with traditional buildings and offers several places to eat and stay the night. We stayed at L’auberge La Cleida, a simple yet cosy place that provided a warm meal and a comfortable bed in a small dormitory – a perfect end to a long but rewarding day on the trail.
Day 3: Plampinet to Briançon (26.5 km)
Day 3 was a long and demanding day, especially after the big efforts of the previous two days. We began with a climb out of Plampinet on a dirt road, which gradually took us higher until we emerged into a stunning hanging alpine valley.
At the charming, uninhabited hamlet of Les Acles, we crossed the clear Ruisseau des Acles river and continued climbing through a narrow and shallow valley towards the Col de la Lauze.
As we neared the pass, the shrill whistles of marmots echoed around us. Sitting quietly for a while, we were delighted to see the curious creatures emerge to inspect us. At the Col de la Lauze, we were greeted with incredible 360-degree views. It was the perfect spot to rest and eat lunch while soaking in the expansive alpine scenery.
From the col, the trail began to descend, and we gradually felt the wilderness retreat as ski lifts and other signs of civilisation came into view. Eventually, we arrived in the ski town of Montgenèvre, desperate for a cold drink and an ice cream as the weather had turned from the rain on our first day to now boiling hot and sunny!
However, being shoulder season (mid-June), very few shops were open. Our search for an open supermarket added a couple of extra kilometres to an already long day. Thankfully, we finally found a bar and treated ourselves to a much-needed ice cream.
From Montgenèvre, we began the final leg of the hike to Briançon. This stretch was mostly downhill, and by this point, our legs were protesting a little!
Eventually, we crossed the historic Pont d’Asfeld, an impressive 18th-century stone bridge built during the reign of King Louis XV to connect Briançon to the military road leading to Italy. The bridge offers fantastic views of the Durance River gorge below and is a testament to the town’s strategic importance.
Briançon, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, welcomed us with its walled city, cobblestone streets, and colourful buildings. The town’s lively yet relaxed atmosphere made it the perfect place to conclude our hike. We found a cosy spot for an early dinner, reflecting on our journey before heading to the train station for our 8 pm overnight departure to Paris.
Optional Tip: If you prefer to avoid the final 10 km stretch from Montgenèvre to Briançon, there is a (seasonal) bus service or if that’s not available, you could book a taxi to cut down on the distance of this otherwise pretty long day.
Tips for the Trip
- Pack light: A small, well-fitted backpack with only the essentials will make the hike far more enjoyable.
- Prepare for alpine weather: Layers are key, as is a lightweight down / insulated jacket, as temperatures can vary greatly throughout the day especially in June when we did this hike.
- Hydrate and refuel: Bring plenty of water and high-energy snacks to keep you going.
- Brush up on trail etiquette: Take all your rubbish away with you and say a cheerful “bonjour” to fellow adventurers.
- Don’t rush: Take time to soak in the scenery and enjoy the journey.
Final Thoughts
Hiking this 3 day stretch of the GR5 hiking route in the French Alps is a fantastic way to experience the region’s beauty, but it’s important to note that this is not a hike for beginners, first-timers, or children.
The distances are long, and the elevation gains are significant, demanding a good level of fitness and preparation.
While the route is not technical, the physical demands and the potential for rapidly changing mountain weather make it best suited for seasoned hikers.
However, the combination of stunning landscapes, welcoming refuges, and the adventure and convenience of train travel from the UK makes this an unforgettable escape for those seeking a rewarding challenge. If you’re ready to take on this adventure, feel free to get in touch with any questions you have about the GR5 – I’d be happy to help!
- If you’re after a child free but rather less strenuous hike, this hike is also perfect for a long weekend: 2 night hut to hut hike in Austria: Around the Bischofsmütze
- If you haven’t spent time in a mountain hut / refuge before, check out my beginner’s guide to mountain huts
- If you’re new to Komoot, have a read of my Komoot for beginners article.
