This three day family friendly hut to hut hike near Salzburg is a wonderful introduction to alpine trekking with kids. Imagine waking up to the sound of cowbells, stepping outside your traditional Austrian mountain hut to see the sun rising over the Dachstein Alps, and knowing that there’s nothing ahead but fresh air, adventure, and a good meal at the next hut.
This route takes you through stunning landscapes, from lush alpine meadows to dramatic rock formations beneath the Bischofsmütze (this translates to “Bishop’s Mitre” in English and refers to a striking twin-peaked mountain in the Dachstein range of Austria). With well-placed mountain huts, a hiker’s bus to start the journey, and some adaptability in the route at the end, this trip offers both adventure and flexibility.
This blog post covers everything you need to plan your trip!
Planning this hut to hut hike: Logistics
About the route
- Duration: 3 days, 2 nights (or 4 days, 3 nights if you extend at the end)
- Start point: Filzmoos, near Salzburg
- End point: Vorderer Gosausee
- Daily distances & elevation: Moderate, suitable for children comfortable walking a few hours per day
- Difficulty: Family-friendly with manageable distances, moderate elevation gains and well-marked paths. Quite a steep uphill section on day one. One short but steep switchback descent on day two may not be suitable for smaller children or adults with a real fear of heights.
Why this is perfect for families
Each day’s hike is very doable for families. The distances are no more than 7 km each day, with a maximum elevation gain of around 500 m on day one, and then it’s (fairly) level on the two days after that. The mountain huts along the way are all really different – which I loved – but all friendly and welcoming, with hearty food (and cake).
The views change constantly too – one minute you’re walking through a peaceful forest, the next you’re crossing an alpine meadow, and before you know it, you’re in the shadow of the rocky peaks of the Bischofsmütze. And to keep things flexible, (especially if it’s your first multi day hike with the kids) you can decide how to finish – there’s the choice of an extra night, hiking down to the valley or taking a cable car for an easy ride.
- View of the Bischofsmütze from just above Filzmoos
Getting to Filzmoos (near Salzburg)
Getting to Filzmoos is pretty straightforward. If you’re driving, it’s an easy 1 hour trip from Salzburg, with great views along the way.
Prefer public transport, like us? Hop on a train or bus (number 270) to Eben im Pongau, then take a connecting bus (number 521) to Filzmoos. The buses run regularly and drop you right in the village, making it a hassle-free way to start your adventure. It’ll take more like 1.5 – 2 hours, but it’s very easy. Use google maps or the Salzburg Verkehr website to find connections. Check bus and train schedules in advance, as services may be less frequent outside peak season.
Getting to the start point of the hike
The hike begins at Hofalmen, reached via the Fidibus hikers’ bus from Filzmoos. This is free with the Filzmoos Summer Card, which most accommodations in Filzmoos will give you with a one night (or longer) stay. There’ll be a small charge if you don’t have one. It’s only about a 15 to 20 minute drive, but it gives you a helpful 200 metre head start on the climb which always helps!
There are two places to grab great food and drink at the Hofalmen, so fuel up here before setting off if you need to!
Our Komoot route
Booking the mountain huts
If you’ve never stayed in a mountain hut before, it’s worth knowing a few things before you get there – like how meals work, hut etiquette, and why you’ll need a sleeping bag liner! Check out my Beginner’s Guide to Mountain Huts for all the essentials so you can arrive feeling prepared and ready to enjoy the experience.
Huts book up quickly in summer, so you’ll need to reserve early, especially if you’re after a private room (recommended for a good nights’ sleep, especially when you’re hiking with kids who might need an earlier night). Here are the contact details for each overnight stay:
- Hofpürglhütte
- Stuhlalm Credit: www.stuhlalm.at
- Gablonzer Hütte
Staying in Filzmoos (near Salzburg)
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If you’re planning to spend a night in Filzmoos before or after the hike, there are some fantastic places to stay that really embrace the alpine charm of the region. Whether you fancy a traditional family-run guesthouse, a cosy mountain hotel, or a farm stay where the kids can meet the animals, there are plenty of great options.
I’ve rounded up some of the best family-friendly stays in Filzmoos. Booking in advance is necessary, as Filzmoos is a popular spot for outdoor lovers! Some places will have a 2 or 3 minimum night stay – but don’t let this put you off; if you’ve got the time, Filzmoos is a great place to base yourselves as a family for longer.
- Filzmoos town
Hotel Alpenblick A warm and welcoming family-run hotel with stunning mountain views, a delicious breakfast, and a relaxing wellness area to unwind after your hike.
Essl in Filzmoos A charming guesthouse offering a friendly atmosphere, spacious rooms, and an authentic alpine experience; ideal for families looking for comfort and convenience.
Hotel Dachstein A traditional hotel with excellent food, a spa area, and easy access to Filzmoos’ hiking trails.
Das Filzmoos Modern and cosy, this hotel blends self catering apartments with hotel facilities.
Bauernhof Krahlehenhof A true Austrian farm stay where kids can meet the animals, enjoy homemade local food, and experience rural life in the Alps firsthand. There’s a minimum stay of 3 nights, but read my article about farm stays in Austria here if you need any convincing that this might be worth it!
Day 1: Filzmoos to Hofpürglhütte
- Hike distance: Approx. 6.5 km
- Elevation gain: 520 m
- Scenery: Forest trails, alpine meadows, views of the Bischofsmütze
- Overnight at Hofpürglhütte: A welcoming hut with hearty Austrian meals and fantastic mountain views.
The adventure begins with a ride on the Fidibus hikers’ bus to Hofalmen. It’s a great way to start – a short bus journey that drops you right at the start of the trail and saves you a bit of uphill hiking! There’s two lovely traditional places to eat and drink at the Hofalmen, so fuel up before you begin hiking if you need to.
From here, the trail winds on a wide fire road which opens up into beautiful alpine meadows with views of the Bischofsmütze, one of the most recognisable peaks in the region. You’ll hear a lot of marmot whistling through one section of meadow, and it’s very likely you’ll catch a glimpse of some here, which kids always love; they’re super cute!
- Marmots are shy but often quite easy to spot
After about a kilometre, the trail starts climbing pretty steeply first across meadows and then through the forest. The path continues to climb properly for about 1.5 kilometres, but there are plenty of places to stop and rest. Near the top there’s a beautiful meadow with a stream meandering through it. There’s a bench here with a great view of the Bischofsmütze itself.
Once you reach the trail junction, you’ve done most of the climbing. It’s now a fairly level 4 kilometres on a rough but well marked path, traversing the side of the mountain above the tree line with fantastic views. Eventually you’ll see the Hofpürglhütte come into view, sitting on a small plateau right at the foot of the Bischofsmütze itself.
It’s not a long walk, but the elevation gain on this day is short and steep (almost 500 metres in less than 2 kilometres), so take it slow, enjoy the scenery, and stop lots for snacks and water along the way.
By the time you reach Hofpürglhütte, you’ll all be ready for a rest, some food and a refreshing drink – and happy that the most strenuous day is already behind you. This hut is a classic Austrian mountain refuge: welcoming atmosphere, breath taking mountain views, and simple but delicious food.
Day 2: Hofpürglhütte to Stuhlalm
- Hike distance: Approx. 7 km
- Elevation gain: 200 m
- Highlights: Stunning rock formations, high alpine meadows, an exciting serpentine descent (which looks more technical than it is)
- Overnight at Stuhlalm: A small, cosy, traditional hut with excellent food and a family-friendly atmosphere.
After a good night’s sleep at Hofpürglhütte and a hearty breakfast (which as far as I’m concerned is the best meal of the day, and I love a good Austrian mountain breakfast), it’s time to set off on the next leg of the journey. The trail starts with some gentle ups and downs as you traverse along the side of the slope, underneath the high peaks.
After about 3 km (approximately half way through today’s walk) you can detour slightly to reach the Sulzkarhütte for a meal or a drink. Bear in mind this requires hiking down from the trail and then returning back up to meet it further on (it’s about 100 m below the trail you need). Further on, the trail leads into more rugged terrain, with incredible rock formations framing the path.
One of the real highlights of this section is the descent from the Schwarzkogelsteig. The trail zigzags down in steep switchbacks, on a pretty sheer slope, but the path itself is well made and wide enough to feel secure. There are also some cables and steps built into the trail to help on the trickier sections. This is the most technical part of the whole route, so if you’re hiking with kids, take your time, keep them steady, and maybe hold their hands.
- The view from the top of the Schwarzkogelsteig
- Cables and steps on the steep path
Before long, you’ll arrive at Stuhlalm, a cosy and welcoming hut on a beautiful meadow with a real rustic charm. The food here is fantastic; think hearty Austrian dishes made fresh in the kitchen with proudly locally sourced ingredients. It’s the perfect place to relax after a day on the trail, soak in the views, and enjoy a quiet evening with nothing but cow bells to disturb you.
- Stuhlalm. Credit: www.stuhlalm.at
- A typical room in Stuhlam. Credit: www.stuhlalm.at
Day 3: Stuhlalm to Gablonzerhütte (with descent options)
- Hike distance: Approx. 3.7 km
- Elevation gain: 200 m
- Scenery: Panoramic views over the Dachstein and the Vorderer Gosausee
It’s not a long walk today, and the undulating path to the Gablonzerhütte is quite rough and rocky but well marked. Reaching the Gablonzerhütte feels like a real milestone; it’s the last mountain hut of the trip, perched high above the stunning Vorderer Gosausee. From here, you have a few options for how to wrap up the adventure, depending on how everyone is feeling.
- Approaching the Gablonzerhütte
Whichever option you go for, the views from the Gablonzerhütte are spectacular, and there’s no wrong way to finish this fantastic hike!
Getting Back to Filzmoos from Vorderer Gosausee
Once you’ve reached the lake, you’ll need to find your way back to Filzmoos. Unfortunately, the massive mountain range you’ve just crossed on foot 💪 means there’s no short way back to Filzmoos – you’ll need to take the roads which skirt the long way around the mountain ranges.
Practical Tips for Families
For more tips, check out my Hut to Hut Hiking with Kids guide. It’s packed with tips, route ideas, and everything you need to know to plan an unforgettable mountain adventure with your family!
Final Thoughts
This route is a fantastic introduction to hut to hut hiking with kids. It’s easily accessible from the beautiful city of Salzburg, either by public transport or by car / taxi. The distances and elevations on each day of the hike are manageable for the small people in your life, but each day still comes with a good level of challenge and variety. The huts are welcoming and the scenery is stunning. It’s the perfect mix of adventure and comfort. Get in touch if you need help planning your trip!