When five old friends and I – who first met in school at age 11 – all managed to be available on the same June weekend – it had to be something good! A two night hut to hut hike in Austria felt like the perfect way to combine our shared love of adventure with plenty of time for a good laugh. Over the course of our hike, we swapped life updates on the trail, tackled slightly sketchy mountain paths together, and shared a (loud!) dormitory in a cosy mountain hut. It turned out to be more than just a weekend away – it was a celebration of decades of friendship and proof that there’s still so much joy in taking on new adventures together.
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Starting our hut to hut hike in Filzmoos, Austria
We began our hike in Filzmoos, an hour’s taxi ride from Salzburg Airport and a charming alpine village known for its picturesque setting and welcoming atmosphere. Our plan was to do a hut to hut hike around the iconic Bischofsmütze (meaning “Bishop’s Mitre”), a distinct, double-peaked mountain in the Dachstein range. This three-day circuit offers a mix of challenging ascents, rewarding views, and lovely alpine scenery that’s perfect for hikers looking to experience the Austrian Alps over a long weekend. There is a nice variety of places to stay in Filzmoos. Choose somewhere close to the village centre.
Hut to hut day one: From Filzmoos ever upwards to the Hofpürglhütte
After a hearty breakfast, we started early to make the most of a full day in the mountains. The initial part of the hike was relatively gentle, winding through lush alpine meadows and passing traditional wooden farmhouses that dot the hillside. As we gained elevation, the views over Filzmoos and the surrounding valley were breath taking, setting a high standard for the day ahead.
Our first major stop was the Sulzenalm, a picturesque alpine area featuring two rustic huts offering refreshments and a welcoming rest spot. We paused to enjoy a mid-morning snack and soak in the stunning views.
Leaving the Sulzenalm, we began the ascent toward the first pass, the Sulzenhals, and then eventually onto the first night’s hut, the Hofpürglhütte situated at the foot of the Bischofsmütze itself. The trail wound through open slopes (where we had a brilliant sighting of an adder!), with steeper parts requiring some stamina. Along the way, we passed blooming alpine wildflowers and heard the occasional call of marmots in the distance.
A night in a mountain hut
After a rewarding day of hiking and a great meal, we settled into our mountain hut for the night. These alpine huts are rustic, communal spaces offering an authentic mountain experience. For our group, this meant sharing a dormitory with a dozen or so other hikers. As the sun set, we tucked ourselves into bunks, tired but excited for the next day’s trails.
And then, the snoring began.
The dormitory became a true symphony of snores, a mix of rhythmic breaths, deep rumbles, and the occasional snorting crescendo! I’ll be honest; sleep didn’t come easily for everyone, as the soundscape seemed to echo off the wooden beams. Earplugs helped a bit, and eventually, we all got some sleep. Let’s not even mention the phone alarm that went off at 5am with no apparent owner to switch it off… We couldn’t help but laugh at the chorus that rose and fell through the night though – it became a shared experience and a part of the adventure that we had a good joke about in the morning.
Hut to hut hike day two: From the Hofpürglhütte to the Gablonzer Hütte
The following day, we climbed higher. The trail became rockier, and we were treated to increasingly spectacular views of the surrounding Dachstein range. Our group took it slow, with plenty of photo stops, enjoying the camaraderie of tackling the ascent together.
Upon reaching the high point of the route, the Steiglpass, the cloud had descended. Had it been sunny, we’d have enjoyed some dramatic 360-degree views. The trail then wound down through a rocky valley, dotted with large patches of unmelted snow. We couldn’t resist the chance to turn it into a bit of fun and slid down sections on our bums laughing all the way!
A cosy hut – the Gablonzer Hütte – and a peaceful night
Our second night’s stay was in a cosy mountain hut with a six-bed dorm all to ourselves – three cheers for the Gablonzer Hütte! This gave us the perfect opportunity for a more peaceful night’s sleep. After a satisfying dinner of hearty alpine fare, we relaxed with well-deserved beers and a spirited game of Yahtzee. This made for a truly enjoyable end to another memorable day in the mountains. The quiet of our private dorm allowed us to recharge, setting the stage for another day of adventure ahead.
Hut to hut hike day three: Descending back to Filzmoos
The final day’s descent took us through forested sections and onto open terrain as we neared Filzmoos. Along the way, we stopped at scenic spots, including one perfect for a picnic with valley views. The descent was moderately steep in places but a welcome, relaxed stretch after the challenges of the previous days.
We wrapped up the hike in Filzmoos, feeling exhilarated and ready for a well-deserved meal. The adventure had delivered everything we’d hoped for: stunning alpine scenery, varied terrain, and a rewarding challenge. Over dinner, we shared trail stories before unwinding in the hotel’s sauna and steam room—a perfect way to end our adventure.
Tips for hut to hut hikers
1. Bring earplugs: They’re a lifesaver in a shared dorm!
2. Eye mask: Huts often have early risers, so a sleep mask can help if you’re sensitive to light.
3. Embrace the experience: It’s all part of the adventure. You may lose a little sleep, but you’ll gain plenty of stories.
4. Start early: This allows you to pace yourself, enjoy longer breaks, and make the most of the daylight.
5. Pack snacks and water: Although there are alpine huts en route, bringing your own snacks and plenty of water will keep your energy up along the way.
6. Sturdy footwear and layers: The terrain can be rocky and uneven, so sturdy hiking boots are essential. Layered clothing is also a good idea as temperatures can change quickly at altitude.
7. Camera ready: The scenery is truly spectacular, so be prepared to capture some great shots along the way!
Inspired by this 2 night hut to hut hike in Austria adventure and ready to experience the stunning beauty of the Bischofsmütze and Filzmoos for yourself? Use my Komoot route to plan your journey, and if you’re new to Komoot, read my Komoot for beginners article.
