Mallorca Without a Car: Hiking Parts of the GR221 Using Public Transport

When I first started planning our hike along the GR221 Dry Stone Route in Mallorca, I wasn’t sure I could make it kid or beginner friendly without using a car or a tour company to shuttle us around.

But the more I looked into it, the more I realised we could easily piece together a brilliant, family- and beginner-friendly version of the northern half of the route using Mallorca’s public transport network; no car required.

In this post, I’ll share exactly how we did it: which bus routes we used, how we connected the trail sections, and what worked well (and what didn’t). If you’re planning a hiking trip in Mallorca – especially as a family or first-timer – you absolutely can explore some of the best parts of the GR221 without worrying about car hire, parking, or one-way logistics.

This isn’t a repeat of our day-by-day itinerary (you’ll find that over here). Instead, it’s a practical guide to help you plan your own car-free GR221 adventure, based on what we learned along the way.

Can you really hike just sections of the GR221 in Mallorca without a car?

Short answer: yes—and we did exactly that. The buses are comfortable, air-conditioned coaches.

Before our trip, I’d assumed we’d need to hire a car to get to the more remote trailheads. Mallorca doesn’t have the same well established hikers’ infrastructure you find in places like Austria and the Dolomites – there’s no network of gondolas or dedicated hikers’ buses that make car-free trips so easy there.

But once I started planning, I realised Mallorca’s public transport network is actually pretty brilliant for hikers, especially along the central and northern sections of the GR221.

There’s no need for car shuffling, taxis, or one-way rentals. Instead, we used a combination of local buses to get to and from the trail, to skip difficult stages or to gain elevation, and to link up sections that might otherwise have required a full day’s walk (or a lot of complaining).

Of course, public transport won’t get you everywhere; there may be some bits you’ll need to plan around, but if you’re walking a highlights route like we did, the buses make it completely doable. We didn’t miss having a car once; in fact it made life easier not to be worrying about car shuffling or parking at all.

Which parts of the GR221 are accessible by public transport?

The good news is that many of the most scenic (and beginner-friendly) stretches of the GR221 are easily accessible by public transport, especially in the central and northern sections.

The 203 bus is great for getting from Palma to the trailheads in the middle of the full GR221 route. It runs from Palma to Valldemossa, Deià, and Sóller; all popular stops along the trail.

We used this route to get from Palma to Deià, which was a scenic and relaxed way to start.

My accommodation recommendations in Deià:
🏷 Budget Choice: Refugi Can Boi
🌟 Splurge Choice: La Residencia, A Belmond Hotel

You could also begin in Valldemossa. That section of the trail from Valldemossa to Deià is around 13 km with a pretty decent amount of climbing and descent, and while it’s considered one of the most beautiful stages, it’s also one of the more challenging.

My accommodation recommendations in Valldemossa:
🏷 Budget Choice: Ca’s Papà
💼 Mid-Range Choice: Es Petit Hotel de Valldemossa
🌟 Splurge Choice: Sa Vall Valldemossa

We decided to start in Deià to keep things easier for the kids, but if you’re up for a steeper first day, Valldemossa makes a great starting point too.

Further along the trail, the 231 bus was key for us. It runs through the Tramuntana mountains between Sóller, Lluc, and Pollença, with several well-placed stops.

There’s also the Palma to Sóller train, which is a lovely, historic journey through the mountains. It’s not the fastest route, but it’s well worth doing if you’re planning to start your hike in Sóller—it’s a bit touristy but the scenery is spectacular, with the train travelling over viaducts, bridges, and through multiple tunnels. From Sóller, the wooden tram down to Port de Sóller is another fun option that can easily replace the short walking stage between the two.

Some of these routes only run a few times a day, so you do need to plan around timetables (more on that below). But with a bit of preparation, you can skip the hardest or least interesting sections of the trail, avoid car shuffles altogether, and still enjoy a rewarding, linear route through the mountains.

The only stretch we found a bit awkward was the mountain stage between Tossals Verds and Lluc, which is long and remote, so there was no good way of doing part of it without committing to the whole thing. I decided it was potentially too tough for the kids, so we looped back to the road (without retracing our steps) from Tossals Verds and caught the bus onwards to Lluc.

My accommodation recommendations in Lluc:
🏷 Budget Choice: Refugi Son Amer
💼 Mid-Range Choice: Santuari de Lluc

Visual Guide: How to Link GR221 Hiking Sections Using Mallorca’s Buses & Trams

Key Transport Routes for GR221 Hikers

Bus 203: Palma – Valldemossa – Deià – Sóller (good for getting to trailheads)

TIB Line 203 is the scenic bus linking Palma with the mountain villages of Valldemossa, Deià, and Sóller (and terminating at Port de Sóller)​.

This route is ideal for accessing the central GR221: it stops in Valldemossa and Deià (both directly on the GR221 trail) and in Sóller and Port de Sóller, near the trail’s midpoint.

Key Stops for Hikers:

• Palma (Estació Intermodal bus terminal – this station is underground, just go down the escalators at street level then follow the bus icon signs)
• Valldemossa (town center)
• The Deià area stops (Es Clot for the Can Boi refuge, then Deià village),
• Sóller (town centre)
• Port de Sóller

(Note: Some schedules have certain buses only go as far as Valldemossa.)

Frequency & Schedule:

• Line 203 runs year-round, generally hourly from morning till evening. In peak summer season, extra services may run (some buses only Palma–Valldemossa to handle tourist demand).
• Always check the latest timetable before your trip, as seasonal schedules can change.

Travel Time:

• Because it’s a mountain road route, travel times are longer than the direct highway.
• From Palma to Valldemossa is ~30–35 minutes.
• From Palma to Deià is about 50 minutes​
• To Sóller (end of the line) roughly 1 hour 15 minutes (this can vary slightly with traffic and stops).
• The ride between Valldemossa and Deià is particularly slow and winding (but very scenic), so enjoy the views of terraced hillsides and the distant sea from the window.

Hiker Tips & GR221 Connections:

• Route 203 is perfect for point-to-point day hikes on the GR221:
  • Valldemossa → Deià: Take the 203 to Valldemossa in the morning, hike the GR221 segment over the Puig Caragolí to Deià (~4–5 hours), then catch the 203 bus onward from Deià back to Palma or to Sóller. Both Valldemossa and Deià have bus stops near the trail.
  • Deià → Port de Sóller: Similarly, you can bus to Deià, hike the beautiful 12 km section to Port de Sóller, then return by bus.
  • Palma ↔ Sóller via 203: This is a slower but scenic alternative to the tunnel road. If you’re based in Palma and plan to hike around Sóller or start the GR221 from there, the 203 is a gorgeous ride but note the longer journey. (The alternative is the more direct 204 express bus or the train)

Practical Notes:

• In summer, the 203 can get crowded with tourists visiting Valldemossa and Deià – it’s not uncommon for a bus to fill up (“completo”) at Palma station or stops along the line. To avoid this, get to the Palma bus terminal early (it’s underground at Plaça d’Espanya – don’t get lost looking for it above ground​!).
• If the 203 is full or you prefer a faster trip to Sóller, you can take the 204 express and then connect to 203 at Sóller or Deià.
• Be prepared for a curvy ride – the MA-10 road has many hairpin turns. If you’re prone to motion sickness, sit near the front and take travel sick prophylactics. On the upside, the views are spectacular.

Bus 231: Port de Sóller – Lluc – Pollença – Port de Pollença (mountain connector)

Key Stops for Hikers:

• Starting from Port de Sóller, it picks up in Sóller town, then climbs the mountain road (MA-10) past the Mirador de ses Barques viewpoint.
• It stops near the Cúber Reservoir where the GR221 meets the road (the bus stop going towards Lluc is called Cúber 2 (19012))
• Lluc Monastery (the bus stop is directly at Lluc, a major trail intersection).
• From Lluc it descends the scenic road toward Pollença, with stops at the Vall d’en Marc where the GR221 meets the main road before following it rather boringly into Pollença town (the bus stop going towards Pollença is called Vall d’en Marc 2 (42050)).
• Pollença town
• Port de Pollença on the coast, and in peak season it even extends to Alcúdia (but Port de Pollença is effectively the end-point for GR221 hikers)​

Frequency & Schedule:

• Route 231 runs only a few times per day – typically 4 departures per day in each direction
• It runs end March / early April to October, four times a day between Port de Sóller and Alcúdia (via Lluc and Pollença), taking about 2 hours end-to-end​.
• Exact times vary by year and month (and weekends vs weekdays), so consult the current TIB timetable.
• Because of the low frequency, plan your hike around the bus times.
• There is no service in winter (Nov–Feb / March)

Travel Time:

• Over the rugged mountain route, travel is not very fast – but the scenery is beautiful.
• From Sóller up to Cúber is about 30 minutes (via many hair pin bends)
• Sóller to Lluc takes around 45 – 60 minutes (with more switchbacks!).
• Lluc down to Port de Pollença another 45 minutes or so.
• Despite the duration, the ride is a treat: you’ll be traveling through the highest part of Mallorca with vistas of the mountains, reservoirs and distant sea views.

Hiker Tips & GR221 Connections: Route 231 is a game-changer for GR221 hikers, making linear and flexible itineraries possible:

• Cúber Reservoir: The bus’s Cúber stop​ lies right on the GR221 path between Sóller and Tossals Verds. We used this to avoid the big ascent from Sóller and to significantly cut that stage down in distance too.
• Lluc Monastery: Lluc is a traditional stop on the GR221 (with a refuge and hotel accommodations). The 231 bus stop is at the monastery parking. This offers a bailout or start point: you can end your hike at Lluc and bus out to Port de Pollença (or back to Sóller), or bus in to Lluc to start hiking northward or southward.
• Vall d’en Marc: The final 5–6 km of the long stage (~20 km) of the GR221 from Lluc to Pollença follows the main road, which is a bit tedious, so you can make the stage much more manageable by hopping on the bus when the trail meets the road.
• Pollença and Port de Pollença (trail’s end): The GR221 officially ends in Pollença town, but many hikers stay at Port de Pollença for a celebratory finish by the beach. Route 231 serves both.

Practical Notes:

• Because 231 is seasonal and infrequent, always time your hikes so you arrive at the stop a bit early. The bus will stop for hikers at all the stops, but make sure you are visible (flag it down as it approaches).
• At remote stops like Cúber, there may be other hikers waiting. If you’re traveling with a family or a larger group, note that the bus is a standard coach; it should have space, but on weekends it can fill up with walkers and tourists.
• The ride along Route 231 is very winding (especially the stretch between Sóller and Lluc), so again, motion sickness prep is wise.
• Remember this line only runs roughly April–October​

Palma ↔ Sóller Historic Train (“Red Lightning”)

Aside from the buses, the vintage Palma – Sóller train, nicknamed the “Red Lightning”, offers a nostalgic, scenic link through the Serra de Tramuntana. Originally opened in 1912 to carry citrus fruit out of the Sóller valley, the original vintage train now serves both locals and visitors and can double as a relaxed way to access the GR221 around Sóller.

Key Stops for Hikers:

• Palma Estació Intermodal
• Sóller (elegant Art-Deco station in town centre)
• From Sóller you can change onto the historic wooden tram to Port de Sóller (additional ticket required)

Frequency & Schedule:

• Runs year-round, with 4 departures per day from each end in low season and up to 6–8 in high summer
• Tram departures between Sóller and Port de Sóller run at least hourly (peak summer increases frequency)

Travel Time:

• Palma ⇄ Sóller: about 60 minutes one-way over 28 km of tunnel and mountains
• Sóller ⇄ Port de Sóller (tram): ~ 20 minutes

Hiker Tips:

• I’ve included this much more as a fun tourist option rather than a practical choice, but it still gets you to Sóller and would make a fun addition to a hiking itinerary, especially with kids.
• Cost vs value: Tickets are expensive, at around 30 – 40 € for an adult including the tram to the port and back. It appears to be difficult to book a one way journey as well.
• Avoid crowds: The train is popular with tourists; you will need to book in advance and arrive early in the station to secure seats, especially on summer mornings.

Practical Notes:

• Connection to GR221: The Sóller station sits just off the GR221 path; from there you can pick up the trail north (towards Cúber / Lluc) or south (towards Deià), making it a versatile hub for car-free hiking.
• Ticket purchase: Buy in advance online.
• There’s also an express bus to Sóller from Palma: TIB Line 204 connects Sóller/Port de Sóller to Palma via the fastest route – through the Sóller tunnel and highway Ma-11. It’s about 40 minutes from Palma to Sóller by this route​, plus ~10 more minutes down to Port de Sóller​. While it doesn’t serve the mountain villages, it’s extremely useful for hikers as a quick return to Palma after finishing a trail section in Sóller (or to reach Sóller to start hiking). It’s also much cheaper than the train.

How to Plan Your Hike Around the Buses

If you’re hiking the GR221 without a car, you can shape your route around the bus timetable. But that does mean doing a bit of homework up front. With the right planning, we enjoyed a smooth, linear route through the mountains without doubling back or having to arrange transport at the last minute.

What to Check Before You Go

• Bus route numbers and stop names – they’re not always obvious, and some stops (like the one at Cúber) are little more than a signpost on the roadside.
• Seasonal schedules – some routes, like the 231 through the mountains, only run from spring to autumn
• Frequency – some buses run hourly, others only four times a day. Missing one could mean a long wait.
• Connections – buses don’t all link up neatly. If you’re combining two routes in a day make sure the timings work.

The best place to start is the TIB website, where you’ll find current timetables and route maps.

🔹 Top Tip:
Always screenshot the bus timetables before you travel – mobile signal can be patchy in the mountains!

How We Planned Our Days

We always started by looking at which stretches of the GR221 we wanted to walk, and then checked where the trail crossed a bus route. From there, we’d adjust the day’s plan to match the bus times – either hiking towards a bus stop for a pickup at the end of our walk, or catching a morning bus to the start of a stage.

We also looked for built-in flexibility: if there were only a few buses a day, we aimed to arrive at the stop with time to spare, just in case the hike took longer than expected.

An Example: Linking Deià to Tossals Verds

💬 Did You Know?
You can skip the steepest part of the GR221 by taking the 231 bus to the Cúber reservoir and hiking into Tossals Verds from there.

Tips for Using the Buses in Mallorca

Spot the Red and Yellow Bus Stops: Mallorca’s TIB bus stops are marked by red and yellow pillars. Don’t be alarmed if there’s no shelter or bench. Just make sure you’re standing visibly by the pole and flag the bus down so the driver knows to pick you up!

Tickets & Payment: Paying your fare on board with a contactless bank card is significantly cheaper than paying with cash. If you’re traveling as a family or group, there’s no need for separate cards – you can use the same card for everyone (see the below for how to do this and group discounts). It’s a super convenient way pay AND to cut costs for your hiking crew.

💡 Save with Contactless: Paying your TIB bus fare with a contactless credit/debit card can be almost 40% cheaper than using cash. Just tap your card on the bus’s reader when you board – the fare is charged automatically at the discounted rate. Travelling with others? You can tap the same card once per passenger (up to 5 people total). The system will register each rider and apply an automatic group discount for everyone. All the fares go onto one card, making it easy and giving each additional person an even lower fare.

What About Getting to and From the Airport?

You’ve got a few options for getting between Palma Airport and the GR221 trail, and they all work well without a car.

We flew into Palma and decided to spend our first night in the city before heading up into the mountains. Palma’s lovely for a bit of exploring, and it gave us time to have a good meal and do some exploring before the hiking started.

My accommodation recommendations in Palma:
🏷 Budget Choice: Regina Smart Rooms
💼 Mid-Range Choice: MHOUSE Boutique Hotel Palma
🌟 Splurge Choice: Hotel Cappuccino

From the airport, we took the A1 bus into the city centre. It runs frequently, stops right outside the terminal, and drops you at Plaça d’Espanya, which is also where you’ll find the bus to Valldemossa or Deià the next day. The A1 takes about 20 minutes and costs around €5 per person.

At the end of the hike, we finished in Port de Pollença and travelled back to the airport using public transport.

My accommodation recommendations in Port de Pollença:
🏷 Budget Choice: Pensión Bellavista
💼 Mid-Range Choice: Hotel Sis Pins
🌟 Splurge Choice: Hoposa Uyal

First, we caught the 322 bus to Alcúdia, which runs regularly and only takes about 20 minutes. From there, we transferred to the A32 airport bus, which runs all the way from Alcúdia straight to the airport in about an hour.

However – it was already standing room only when it picked us up in Alcúdia. If you’re flying home, especially in summer or during busy times, allow plenty of time or consider booking one of the shared shuttle services below in advance.

For a more direct option, several companies offer shared shuttle services from Port de Pollença to Palma Airport. These need to be booked in advance and typically cost around €15 per person. The journey takes approximately 1 hour and 15 minutes, depending on the number of stops, and I think this is the only place where I’d choose this option over the public bus service if we were to do this again.

Sample GR221 Itinerary Using Buses

Here’s a quick outline of how we stitched together our GR221 hike using only public transport. For the full story (complete with trail descriptions, ice cream recommendations, and how we avoided the worst bits of the road-walking), head to the full itinerary here.

• Day 1: A1 bus from Palma Airport → Palma city (overnight stay)
• Day 2: 203 bus from Palma → Deià (overnight stay)
• Day 3: Hike from Deià to Port de Sóller
• Day 4: Hike from Port de Sóller to Sóller (the old tram is an option here if you don’t want to walk!)
• Day 5: 231 bus from Sóller → Cúber reservoir and hike to Tossals Verds
• Day 6: Hike back to Cúber reservoir: looped back to bus stop on a different route and took 231 bus to Lluc
• Day 7: Hike part-way to Pollença, then before the final road walk picked up the 231 bus to Port de Pollença
• Day 8: Rest day in Port de Pollença
• Day 8: 322 bus from Port de Pollença → Alcúdia, then A32 bus Alcúdia → Palma Airport

No car, no taxis, and no doubling back. Just boots, backpacks, and buses!

Final Thoughts: No Car, No Problem

Hiking the GR221 without a car turned out to be super easy. We didn’t have to worry about parking, car rental queues, or trying to arrange awkward one-way drop-offs.

Instead, we used Mallorca’s public transport network to put together a route that worked really well for us, and also gave us bail out bus options for most days if the weather turned or if the kids were flagging. In the end, we didn’t need those bailouts, but knowing they were there made me feel a lot more relaxed!

Would we do anything differently?

1. We built in a bit too much buffer time around the less frequent bus (the 231), which meant waiting for an hour or so at a couple of points, but it is hard to estimate how long each hike will take as the terrain makes more of a difference than the distance, and that’s the one thing you don’t really know until you’ve done it!
2. I’d also choose not to take the A32 airport bus from Alcúdia to the airport. It was so full already when it picked us up in Alcúdia, and it’s possible that at a busier time there literally wouldn’t have been space for us. This would be very stressful with a flight to catch! Since the shared shuttle services from Port de Pollença to Palma Airport can be booked in advance and are still good value, I’d choose this option next time.

Overall though, it worked brilliantly. You can explore the city, the mountains, stay in remote hikers’ hostels and hotels in gorgeous villages, and finish with your feet in the sea – all without a car.

Where to Next? More Family Adventures

• Our GR221 Mallorca Hiking Itinerary for Beginners or Families: From Palma to Pollença on Foot and by Bus
• Best family friendly hut hikes in the Alps and first hand advice
• A Perfect First Hut to Hut Hike in the Dolomites with Kids
• Family Friendly Hut to Hut Hiking Near Salzburg: A Three-Day Alpine Adventure
• Komoot for Beginners