Forget the queues for Santa and the overpriced reindeer sleigh rides. This Finland winter itinerary is for families who’d rather hike to a snowy wilderness café than queue for a photo with an elf.
We spent 10 days exploring Helsinki and Lapland (getting between the two on a brilliant overnight train adventure) with our two kids (11 and 13), exploring on foot and by fat bike and snowshoe – and it was an excellent outdoorsy family adventure.
This trip gave us everything we love about winter travel: proper cold (it got down to -38°C!), truly wild and snowy scenery, hot berry juice in wooden wilderness huts, and lots of time outdoors.
No commercial crap, no queuing for reindeer sleighs or visits to Santa – just heaps of snow, a lot of fun activity, and some real rest built in too.
In this post, I’ll walk you through exactly how we DIYed this trip: where we stayed, how we got around without a car, and what worked (or didn’t) for our family. You’ll get the full 10-day itinerary, tips on what to pack, and why Finland in winter might be the family trip you didn’t know you needed.
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Why Finland in winter works for active families
When I first started researching a Lapland itinerary with kids, most of what I found were package tours: you fly in, meet Santa (and apparently then complain about it being “inauthentic” 🤪), try a few “taster” activities at vast expense (a 5-minute husky ride, a reindeer pulled sled on a rope), then pile back on a coach before your toes freeze off.
It’s sold as magical – but it was the complete antithesis of what I was looking for! In a place this wild, where so much of the landscape is accessible pretty much for free by foot, cross country ski or fat bike, those package tours are jarringly commercial.
But it doesn’t have to be like that.
Doing Lapland independently – by train, bus, foot and fat bike – is not only possible, it’s better. It’s cheaper, slower, and far more authentic. You set the pace. You pick the cabin. You hike across frozen lakes and warm up in log cafés deep in the wilderness that aren’t packed with tour groups.
Finland in winter is ideal for families who like to move. The wilderness here isn’t remote or intimidating; it’s accessible, with well-marked, groomed trails for winter walking, snowshoeing, fat biking (and cross country skiing if that’s your thing!)
You’re in real forests and on frozen lakes, but always on established routes that feel safe and manageable with kids. We were often alone, but we also came across other people on the trail once in a while too – just the right balance of quiet and reassurance.
And the cold? Yes, it’s chilly! But if you keep moving and dress properly, it’s not a problem. We were out in –30°C and stayed warm; the kids included. The difference is you’re not standing in Santa queues (honestly, this must be so cold, I can’t think of anything worse!). You’re hiking, exploring, and earning your munkki (delicious Finnish doughnuts).
This kind of non-commercial Lapland itinerary with family is Finland at its best: calm, beautiful, active and properly wintry. And it’s well within reach, budget-wise especially if you’re willing to skip Santa and go your own way.
How to get around Finland in winter without a car
We did the whole trip, from Helsinki to two different locations in Lapland, without hiring a car, and I wouldn’t change a thing.
For a start, the overnight train from Helsinki to Kolari in Lapland was a highlight of the trip. It takes you nearly 1,000km north, to beyond the Arctic Circle, without the hassle of airports or driving.
We booked two interconnecting 2-berth cabins and arrived rested, not frazzled. Even better; there are connecting buses at the train stations to major resort areas which wait if the train is delayed (ours was by an hour, and the bus still held on).
When I first looked into car hire for the Lapland section of our trip, I did a lot of research. It would’ve cost over £1,000 – and that was before fuel or insurance. For a family trying to keep things semi-sensible on cost, that just didn’t stack up.
But more than that, I read through dozens of forum threads and Facebook group posts about winter driving in Lapland. The advice was all over the place:
- “It’s fine, just go slow.”
- “It’s terrifying — I had white knuckles the entire time and we actually crashed.”
- “We broke down in –35°C and it was genuinely scary being stranded in those conditions.”
- And my personal favourite: Finnish drivers complaining that tourists drive too slowly and should hurry up — which surely only increases the pressure!!
Yes, the cars are well equipped with winter tyres and heated everything – but you still need to know how to handle extreme cold, ice, and snow-packed roads. We weren’t sure about this, and now that we’re home, I think it was a good decision.
I’m not saying I definitely wouldn’t rent a car there in the future, but given the cost saving we made by not hiring a car, combined with the relative ease of taking the bus and a taxi a couple of times, I’d very happily do the same again!
Instead, once we were in Lapland, we used buses and two well-timed taxis — one was 2.5 hours, the other 45 minutes. Finnish taxis aren’t cheap, but the total cost was still around half of what the hire car alone would’ve cost.
Yes, it meant we were a bit less flexible. But I chose our locations carefully, made sure everything we needed was within walking distance, and I don’t think we missed out in any way!
Where we went (and why)
Before diving into the full itinerary, here’s a quick look at where we went in Finland — and why we picked these stops.
Helsinki
We started in the capital, partly because our Finnair flight into Helsinki was the cheapest option, but also because it’s a great city and we wanted to visit. It’s compact, interesting, and easy to navigate. It made a natural launching point for the overnight train north, which we’d always wanted to try.
Äkäslompolo (Ylläs)
Our main Lapland base was the village of Äkäslompolo, on one side of the Ylläs ski resort.
Ylläs is technically a downhill ski resort (with a few ski lifts for downhill skiing), but in Finland it’s just as well known for its extensive network of cross-country ski trails, plus groomed and marked routes for snowshoeing, hiking, and fat biking.
We chose Äkäslompolo specifically because of the easy access to these routes, and because it’s a proper village (it doesn’t feel like – and isn’t – a purpose built ski resort); there’s a good supermarket, plenty of restaurants, and it’s all walkable. That made it ideal for us, as we were going car-free.
Äkäslompolo was also easily accessible from Kolari – the terminus of our overnight train from Helsinki -by a connecting bus from the train station directly to the village.
Korvala (near Rovaniemi)
For the final leg, we transferred by taxi to Korvala Log Cabins, about 45 minutes from Rovaniemi airport.
Korvala gave us a taste of Lapland that was quiet, remote, and low-key, but still easy to reach, and its proximity to Rovaniemi airport for our flight home made it a great location. Flying home from Rovaniemi made more sense than looping all the way back to Helsinki since we were time limited, much as we loved the overnight train!
There was no supermarket close by, but there’s a restaurant and cafe on site which suited us, and we could bring some self catering food with us from Äkäslompolo.
The cabin stay there included free use of snowshoes, ice skates, cross country skis, and sledges, and had a husky farm onsite (though our sled ride was sadly cancelled due to extreme cold).
These locations worked really well together for a non-commercial Lapland with family itinerary — with no car hire, no packaged tours, and no Santa queues.
Our 10 day Finland winter itinerary with kids
Day 1 – Fly to Helsinki and settle in
We flew from London Heathrow to Helsinki with Finnair; a straightforward direct flight that arrived in the evening. By the time we landed, got through passport control and collected bags, it was late, dark, and a bit chilly.
We could’ve taken the train into the city (it’s cheap and efficient – buy single tickets from machines at the station or download the HSL app), but with tired kids and sub-zero temperatures, we opted for a taxi straight from the airport taxi stand. It cost under €40 and got us to the hostel in about 30 minutes.
Our base for the night was the Aikatalo Hostel near the train station, which doesn’t sound all that glamorous, but was very comfortable and worked perfectly. We booked a private quad room with one big double and a bunk bed, which was ideal for our family of four.
🏨 Read my full review of the Aikatalo Hostel here →
We all went straight to bed. Helsinki is 2 hours ahead of the UK so it’s a small adjustment. We slept in a little the next morning but still gave ourselves plenty of time to explore the city!
🏨 Where to stay in Helsinki with kids
Looking for budget-friendly options near the train station, waterfront and compact city centre? These three were on my short list:
- Aikatalo Hostel – Where we ended up staying. Simple, self-check-in, family rooms, great for a night or two. Full review here.
- Scandic Grand Central Helsinki – Affordable, with a highly praised buffet breakfast. Family rooms available, but most involve a sofa bed for the kids which doesn’t work for ours.
- Hotel Finn – Central, good value, family rooms, and well-reviewed.
Day 2 – Exploring Helsinki
We slept in after our late arrival and left our bags at the hostel while we explored the city.
💡Top tip: we initially tried to leave our luggage in the luggage lockers at the main train station, but they were completely full, along with a small crowd of people still trying to find a free locker.
In the end, we just left our bags in the hostel lounge. It felt secure enough; access required two separate door codes, but we didn’t leave any valuables. If you need to use the lockers at the station – which looked great, with large capacity – get there before 9 am.
First stop: Café Engel for brunch, opposite the cathedral. It’s a Helsinki classic – a mix of traditional Finnish and modern brunchy options, and it was busy but was just a short wait. You could call in advance to make a table reservation – but we didn’t and it was fine.
From there, we walked down to the harbour, wandered through the remaining Christmas market stalls, and then hopped on the 15 minute ferry to Suomenlinna, the sea fortress island.
Suomenlinna is a UNESCO World Heritage site, originally built in the 1700s when Finland was part of Sweden. It’s essentially a series of old fortifications spread across connected islands, with bunkers, tunnels, and thick stone walls that make it surprisingly fun for kids to explore.
The visitor centre has a free kids’ leaflet with a map and a few simple activities, which helped give our wander on the main pedestrian path through the island some structure (and gave the kids a bit more ownership).
There are a few cafés to choose from, we stopped for hot chocolate and buns before heading back to the ferry.
Back in town, we made a beeline for the Stockmann department store’s Christmas Moomin window; a beautifully done animatronic winter scene of Moomins enjoying winter sports like ice skating and skiing.
It’s a Helsinki tradition, and while they sometimes do themed windows for other holidays, there’s always a Christmas one. A lovely stop for kids if you’re visiting in December or early January.
Then, with a bit of time to kill, we walked over to the Oodi Library, which blew us away! It’s enormous, in a beautiful building, warm, and incredibly family-friendly, with books in English, play areas for little ones, an interactive fairytale wall where kids can paint Northern Lights in the sky and a decent café.
There is even a retro game corner where you can play classic video games. A brilliant warm-up stop if you’re out in the cold with kids.
For dinner, we ate at the Vietnamese pho café directly under the hostel. I know this is not exactly traditional Finnish, but we had plenty of that to come, and this restaurant was super convenient for picking up our bags before going to the train station!
The place was buzzing and the food delicious – exactly the sort of casual-but-excellent food you want on a cold night before hopping on an overnight train.
After dinner, we collected our bags and walked over to the station to catch the overnight train to Lapland.
We boarded the overnight train from Helsinki to Kolari at 8:30pm. The whole process was smooth and stress-free — I booked tickets easily in advance through VR (Finland’s national railway), and we chose two interconnecting 2-berth cabins.
The cabins were compact but comfortable: wide bunks, bedding provided, and a private wash basin in each cabin. When the conductor came to check our tickets, he opened the door between our cabins. There’s even on board Wi-Fi, but mobile signal also held up well for most of the journey.
The kids were super excited about sleeping on a train, and honestly so was I!
🛌 Tip: Pack your overnight essentials (pyjamas, toothbrush, chargers, kindle) in a small separate bag. You won’t want to rummage through big cases once you’re in your small cabin!
Day 3 – Overnight train to Kolari & arrival in Lapland
We arrived in Kolari around noon, about an hour delayed — not terribly unusual in snowy weather. But here’s the magic of Finnish logistics: the local bus to Äkäslompolo was waiting, even with the delay, as it’s specifically timetabled to meet the train. No panic, no stress, just a warm coach ready to take us the final stretch into Lapland.
By lunchtime we were off the bus, standing on a frozen lake under blue skies — our DIY Lapland adventure properly underway.
We stayed at Holiday Club Ylläs Apartments and Cottages, which isn’t one specific location, but a network of cabins scattered around Äkäslompolo; all within walking distance of town, but some closer than others.
You don’t find out exactly where your cabin is until you collect your key, so you need to be comfortable with a bit of a walk (ours was about 20 minutes from the centre). However, being further out was actually a plus: it felt wilder, quieter, and we caught the Northern Lights right from outside the cabin thanks to the lower light pollution.
The cabins vary, but most have a mezzanine sleeping area, a small second bedroom or bunk space, and a sofa bed – sleeping up to six (at a bit of a squeeze). Ours was great for four, with loads of space, lovely underfloor heating, and a sauna I used every night. There was even a drying cupboard in the hallway, which was genius – perfect for wet balaclavas, hand-washed laundry, and snowy gear.
There was a huge log-burning stove, though we didn’t use it (the heating was so efficient it wasn’t needed, and we didn’t fancy the cleaning faff at the end).
❄️ A few quirks to note: in theory, check-in isn’t until 5pm, and the key collection process was unnecessarily awkward. You pick up keys from a small office in the centre of town, but the instructions were unclear; it’s actually in a building called Ylläs Avain, which isn’t obviously linked to Holiday Club. We wandered a shopping centre trying to find it, and eventually asked someone.
The office closes at 4pm during the week, which is frustrating if your cabin’s not ready until 5pm, leaving you with bags and nowhere to go. They did hold our luggage, and we had lunch at Well Kitchen & Northern Cafe (great burgers) before going for a walk on the frozen lake.
At 3:30pm we went back to collect the key, and luckily our cabin was ready. The map they gave us was crap, and it was already dark; but we eventually found it. The cabin was warm, peaceful, and really Finnish-cosy. Despite the check-in faff, I’d stay again.
🙌 Bonus: Bed linen and cleaning were included — which is not standard in Finland. Most rentals expect you to bring your own sheets and clean the place yourself before check-out. It was a real relief to have it all sorted.
🏡 Where to stay in Äkäslompolo with kids
These are all within walking distance of town; a must if you’re not driving. The cosy log cabins are a huge part of the Lapland experience, but do note that many rentals expect you to bring your own sheets and clean the place yourself before check-out.
- Holiday Club Ylläs Apartments and Cottages – Our pick for great value, included linen + cleaning; great for four with a mezzanine room and bunk corner; would be cosy (tight!) for six.
- Holiday Home Lapinkulta B by Interhome – Central and well equipped; more space for six people in two twin bedrooms and a sofabed.
- Lapland Happiness Skistar 201 – Solid family option close to trails; bigger and a little more expensive. Three bedrooms.
- Stay North – Joiku: Echo of the North – Sleek, modern cabins right on the lake. Massive windows and perfect for Northern Lights views. Three bedrooms, a sofa bed, sauna and hot tub. Not cheap, but stunning.
Day 4 – Fat biking, animals & a clear night on the lake
This was our first full day in Äkäslompolo, and we hit the ground running. We had pre-booked e-fat bikes from Hidden Trails Lapland and my husband and son set off on the ski bus a couple of stops to their shop.
It’s possible to rent fat bikes in town, but I highly recommend Hidden Trails for their variety of kid-friendly bike sizes, as well as their local knowledge and general kindness.
They were so great – really understanding when we had to cancel two bikes because my daughter fractured her wrist the week before we arrived, and didn’t push any paid tours, rather suggested trails we could do on our own, and gave us great route advice on the day taking the conditions into account.
Soon they had set off on the snow-packed trails. These aren’t just random forest tracks; the area has a dedicated winter trail map with clearly marked routes for hiking, biking, skiing, and snowshoeing.
You pay a small fee for the map and trail maintenance, but it’s well worth it. They had a brilliant time, covered about 17 km in -22°C, and stopped at a wilderness cafe half way for a hot berry juice and a doughnut. They absolutely loved it (and Meg and I were a bit gutted we’d had to miss it)!
Meanwhile, since Meg had fractured her wrist just before this trip, cycling was out. Instead we took a 3 km walk to Jänkä Ranch, an animal farm attached to a hotel just outside town with reindeer, huskies, and Icelandic horses.
She enjoyed meeting the animals, but to be honest the tour itself felt overpriced (confirmation if I ever needed it that paid group tours are really not my thing)!
The tour of the ranch lasted about an hour, was very static (so cold!), and there were way too many people in the group (maybe 25 or so). There’s an small igloo-style hut with a fire for warming up at the end, but we couldn’t get in as it was full. A decent stop if you have younger kids or animal lovers, but I wouldn’t go out of your way for it.
We walked back on the marked off-road hiking trails on the map running along the north side of the lake, and then across the lake back into town. A beautiful walk and the highlight of the day for me!
We met back up in town for supplies from the supermarket, which has everything you need and more. Then it was back to the cabin for a self-catered dinner and a sauna!
That evening we wrapped up again and walked down to the frozen lake, just twenty minutes from the cabin. The sky was clear, the stars were out, and we got our first proper view of the Northern Lights. No tour, no busloads of people, just a few others and us standing on the frozen lake, all mesmerised by the sky. It was really brilliant!
💡 Tip: We used the Ylläs Northern Lights live webcam (about €10 for a week’s access) to monitor the skies from indoors. It was worth it; instead of standing around in the cold staring hopefully upwards, we just kept an eye on the cam and dashed outside when something appeared.
Day 5 – Hike to Velhon Kota wilderness café
This was one of our favourite days of the trip.
We set off mid-morning on foot, following the winter trail map to Velhon Kota, a log cabin café tucked into the forest. The round trip was about 10km; not short in –30°C, but completely manageable thanks to the excellent groomed winter walking trails.
These are marked on the official Ylläs winter map, and they’re groomed for walking boots, not skis or snowshoes; a brilliant feature that makes hiking in deep winter not just possible, but genuinely enjoyable.
There were very few people on the trail, but just enough to feel like you weren’t completely alone. It was cold, yes, but we layered well, moved at a steady pace, and were absolutely fine. The cold just added to the magic, and when we were moving, it really wasn’t an issue.
Velhon Kota is part rustic cabin, part fantasy novel — all dark wood, reindeer hides and flickering candles. It’s cosy, atmospheric, and serves the kind of hearty food you crave after a snowy hike.
We controversially started with donuts and hot berry juice, then had reindeer pancakes for afters, which were so yummy, and maybe more delicious than they sound.
The walk back was just as lovely as dusk fell and the full moon shone brightly. Proper cold, properly active, and properly memorable. Everyone; even the kids, stayed warm, stayed moving, and agreed it beat any kind of theme park Lapland.
Day 6 – Snowshoeing to Navettagalleria café
We decided to try snowshoeing today; partly for the novelty, partly because the café at the other end looked interesting.
We rented snowshoes in town (around €100 for the four of us for the day – this was pretty pricey, but we thought worth it for the experience; rental becomes better value the longer you have them for if you wanted them for a few days), and followed a marked snowshoeing trail to Navettagalleria, another forest café with reindeer, goats, and excellent food.
Again, the Ylläs winter map was our guide — it clearly shows which trails are suitable for snowshoeing.
The trail was beautiful, following a gentle ridgeline – snowy forest, frozen silence, and the occasional squirrel track. We got there for a late lunch and tucked into hot berry juice, donuts, and savoury pies in a cosy wooden café filled with local art and lickering candles.
Outside, two shy reindeer and a goat lived in large enclosures, and the staff gave us lichen for the reindeer and veggie peelings for the goats, and the kids went out to feed them.
By the time we headed back, it was already getting pretty dark (around 3pm), but rather than retrace our steps, we took a different route back through the forest. This one wasn’t marked on my map, but I asked at the café, and they assured me it was easy to follow.
The trail was mostly next to the cross-country ski tracks, and it was clearly marked with blue poles (used for walking and biking trails), plus reflective strips on trees and poles, which were incredibly helpful in the dark with headtorches. It felt adventurous without being risky, and the change of scenery made it even better.
Day 7 – Korvala cabins and a long taxi ride south
We left Äkäslompolo today and headed south toward Korvala Log Cabins, about 2.5 hours by taxi. This was one of only two taxi rides we took in Lapland, and while Finnish taxis aren’t cheap, the cost was still about half the price of hiring a car, and infinitely less stressful.
We chose Korvala because it’s about 45 minutes from Rovaniemi, where we were flying home from. It gave us access to a new area without retracing our route north, and while it’s remote, that’s the point.
Our cabin was one of 9 or 10 overlooking a snowy frozen lake, and forest beyond, there was free access to snowshoes, sledges, cross country skis, and ice skates, and we even saw the Northern Lights again on our first night, right from the lake in front of the cabin.
🏡 Where we stayed: Korvala Cabins
Korvala Log Cabins – Simple, family-run cabins in the forest, 45 mins north east of Rovaniemi. A great final stop if you’re looking for quiet nature, Northern Lights, and free use of snowshoes, skis, ice skates, toboggans, and fishing gear.
🛏 Cabins: Very small but perfectly adequate for a short stay. Ours had a 4-bunk configuration in a tiny corner room, a small two-seater sofa, table seating 4, a two-hob stove, microwave, drip coffee machine, kettle, and sink. It was tight for our family of 4, but fine for 3 nights. Unsuitable for families bigger than 4!
Bed linen and towels are not included, but you can rent these from reception. Worth knowing in advance if you’re planning a stay; and definitely worth budgeting for.
🍴 Food: The nearest shop is 45 km away, so either bring what you need to self cater with you, or onsite restaurant Korvalan Komea serves local specialities in a traditional candle-lit dining room. Dishes include reindeer with mashed potato and lingonberry, salmon and potato stew, rye bread, and arctic berry desserts.
You can pre-book half-board or full-board meals – this is definitely not the cheap option, but the food is delicious. There’s also a café and bar, plus breakfast baskets and picnic lunch boxes available to order.
🐾 Activities:
- Husky tours: Drive your own team of Siberian huskies through the forest (canceled for us due to –38°C temperatures; –30°C is the limit for huskies (and for humans, to be honest!)
- Free Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and hiking on marked trails
- Tobogganing, ice skating and ice fishing on the frozen lake (fishing lessons available)
- Optional extra tours: snowmobiles, reindeer farms, horse-drawn sleigh rides in Rovaniemi or Pyhä-Luosto – you’d need a taxi, activity pick-up, or car for these.
🌲 Good to know: This is the oldest tourism business in Lapland, still family run, with a quiet, traditional feel, and the attached husky kennels are the main reason for staying. It’s a little faded and old, but very charming. It’s remote – no shops nearby – but it makes a calm, nature-based base before flying home.
Day 8 – Husky sledding cancelled & sauna joy
Today was meant to be all about husky sledding; the big-ticket adventure that we’d all been excited about. But with temperatures dropping to –38°C that morning, the tour was (understandably) cancelled.
There wasn’t time to reschedule before our flight home, which was a shame, but it would have been uncomfortably cold with the lack of movement on the husky sleds and with the windchill from the moving sled added in, plus the dogs have –30°C as their sensible limit for pulling sled.
Instead, we still got a taste of the husky experience with a kennel tour. It was bitterly cold, but we really enjoyed meeting the beautiful Siberian huskies, hearing about how they’re trained and cared for, and getting to cuddle a few of them.
That afternoon, we booked the private sauna and cold plunge experience on the property- not included in the cabin stay, but well worth it. The sauna setup included towels and a large sauna, a proper shower area to wash off in, and the cold plunge into the lake was shallow enough for kids; you went down a ladder off the jetty, but it was only a couple of feet deep.
Megan braved it up to her tummy, I went all in (for a few seconds…), and Peter and my husband enjoyed standing outside in the freezing air between sauna rounds. As an aside, it was so cold that my wet feet actually froze to the snow after stepping out of the plunge. A quick reminder that Lapland doesn’t mess around in winter!
Afterwards, we headed to the small lounge, where a jug of cold berry juice was waiting for us before we walked back to our cabin.
It cheered everyone up and gave the day its own kind of magic; very Finnish, very fun.
Day 9 – Forest walks and snow play
For our final full day, we kept things simple. We spent the morning walking through the snowy forest trails around Korvala. You can snowshoe or ski these, but most are packed well enough to manage in normal winter boots.
The trails cover around 4 km² of private forest, and there’s a colour-coded map showing 12 km of routes, marked with coloured flags hanging from trees to help you navigate. All are free for guests to use.
Later, the kids made the most of the little toboggan hill on site – as they had most evenings – flying down it in the pitch dark and screaming!
One of the unexpected joys of Lapland in winter is how quickly the kids adapted to the cold and the short daylight hours. After a week, playing outside in the dark at –30°C felt almost… normal.
After sledging, we gathered wood from the wood shed (there’s plenty of birch bark for kindling) and lit a fire in the sheltered firepit hut on site, which made the cold evening feel pretty magical. We cooked marshmallows over the fire, which felt like the right kind of send-off before our departure back to the UK!
We then headed back to the cabin for the less glamorous side of Finnish cabin life: cleaning. As is standard in Finland, guests are expected to leave the cabin clean and tidy; unless you’ve paid extra for final cleaning (which I was keen to avoid).
Day 10 – Flight home from Rovaniemi
Our final day was short and sweet. We’d booked a taxi transfer from Korvala to Rovaniemi Airport, which took around 45 minutes.
I’d read some less-than-glowing reviews of Rovaniemi Airport; it’s small, and in peak winter season, the combination of multiple charter flights and occasional weather delays (either in Finland or the destination country) can cause major backups. I’ve seen photos of the whole terminal packed wall to wall, with standing room only and no space to sit or queue properly.
But for us, it was smooth sailing. There was a bit of a queue at luggage drop, and then through to the gate area. The airport’s small and not especially well-equipped — you’ll find a café, toilets, and some classic reindeer-themed souvenirs, but not much more. Still, for a direct flight home, it ticked every box.
We flew with Norwegian direct to London Gatwick, arriving home tired but happy and already plotting our next winter escape.
What this Finland winter itinerary looks like at New Year, in February half term, or at Easter
We travelled this exact route over New Year, but it also works brilliantly for February half-term or the Easter holidays; each offering a slightly different flavour of Finnish winter. Here’s what to expect:
🎆 New Year (late December to early January)
- Light: This is the tail end of the polar night, which sounds darker than it is. While the sun doesn’t rise above the horizon for long (if at all), you still get around 4–5 hours of civil twilight — a soft, usable light that feels like sunrise or sunset stretched out for half the day. It’s enough for outdoor activities. Just bring head torches for the earlier morning and late afternoon. Longer hours of darkness mean more time for Northern Lights spotting.
- Skies: The light is beautiful; deep blues, purples, and pastels. The kind of winter beauty you rarely see elsewhere.
- Snow: Thick and powdery! Ideal for winter trails
- Temperatures: Frequently below –20°C, especially in Lapland.
- Tourism: Busy and expensive. Popular with Finnish and other European families – book early if you’re aiming for this window.
❄️ February half-term (deep winter)
- Snow: Still deep and dry. All activities running.
- Temperatures: Still very cold; –30°C mornings are common.
- Light: Sunrise around 9:30am, sunset by 3pm. Enough daylight to fill your day if you get moving early.
- Northern Lights: Still excellent chances.
- Tourism & cost: Flights can be expensive, but accommodation is likely to be cheaper. Finns have similar school holidays though so can be busy with domestic tourists too.
🌞 Easter holidays (spring winter)
- Snow: Definitely still there. Firmer and great for walking or skiing. Tends to start melting around mid-April.
- Temperatures: Warmer; generally between –10°C and +5°C.
- Light: Over 12 hours of daylight by late March. Much longer days = more time outside, and warmer weather means longer activities are much more comfortable. Fewer hours for Northern Lights spotting, but potentially clearer skies in general.
- Local vibe: Finns often head north at Easter – this is their holiday time. BBQs in the snow, deckchairs outside cabins, and cross-country ski trails full of local families.
- Tourism: Quieter internationally than February, with better availability; Finns love to come north at this time of year though.
- Cost: Often cheaper than New Year or February half-term.
No matter when you go, this Finland winter itinerary delivers serious snow, great activities, and a strong chance of catching the Northern Lights, just pack your thermals and a torch.
What to pack for a winter trip to Finland with kids
Here’s the good news: you don’t need to spend a fortune to keep everyone warm. The trick is knowing how to layer, what to prioritise, and what you can borrow or rent.
I’ve added links in this post to specific items we’ve actually used — especially from Decathlon, which I love for good-value, reliable gear. But honestly, if you can borrow from friends, or buy second-hand (Vinted is great for this), do it.
As well as this, outer gear rental is widely available in Lapland including thermal outer layers and boots (we could have rented these in both Äkäslompolo and Korvala).
We had temperatures down to –38°C on this trip and stayed warm throughout; even walking for hours or playing outside in the dark. The secret? Movement + layers.
🧤 The key layering system (for kids and adults)
Depending on the temperature, you want 3 to 6 layers:
- Base layers: Merino wool or synthetic long johns and long-sleeved tops. Avoid cotton – it traps moisture and chills fast. More than one base layer is necessary if it’s really cold.
- Mid layer: Fleece or wool jumper (or two, one on top of the other – I wore a thin merino jumper with a thick fleece on top) and some sort of mid layer legwear like fleece joggers or thermal leggings. We also layered lightweight down jackets on top of fleeces.
- Outer layer: Waterproof and windproof ski jacket + insulated trousers or salopettes.
Extras that matter:
- Wool socks (and thin liner socks for layering)
- Balaclava – this was absolutely crucial for us! You could also use a neck gaiter or buff, but the balaclava really kept us warm under our hats all the way down to our necks, and helped keep mouth and nose covered when it was really cold.
- Gloves + mittens combo: thin glove liners + thick waterproof mittens (mittens are much warmer than gloves, recommended for both kids and adults) over the top
- Woolly hat or trapper hat (no pom-pom if you’re fat biking so it fits under the helmet!)
- Good boots: insulated, waterproof, roomy enough for thick socks
- 🛒 Recommended: Snow boots at Decathlon. Look for the ones with a lower comfort and limit temperature, so they’re warm even when it’s very cold. We found as long as we were moving, our feet stayed pretty warm, even when the temperature was below the stated “comfort temperature” though.
🧳 Essentials that aren’t clothing
- Head torches with fresh batteries or recently charged (one per person)
- Hand (and foot) warmers (great for gloves or boots) – you can also buy these in Finnish supermarkets.
- Lip balm and hand cream (the air is dry and the cold is brutal)
- Hut slippers — great for cabins (I packed mine but no-one else did and they were jealous!)
- Power bank(s) — cold kills phone batteries fast
- Swimwear — for sauna sessions and cold plunges unless you want to do it starkers like the Finns do 💪
🛒 Renting instead of buying?
If you don’t want to buy a full winter wardrobe, you can hire winter gear from Adventure Kit Hire in the UK. They offer high-quality outerwear and boots for both adults and kids; all delivered to your door and ready to go. It’s a great way to stay warm without splashing out on gear you might only need once.
👉 Check out Adventure Kit Hire
📚 Good extras for families
- Books / audiobooks / Kindles: Great for train rides and dark evenings
- Travel-friendly games: A deck of cards, Monopoly Deal, or Yahtzee:
And remember – Finnish supermarkets sell most basics, and they’re not as extortionate as you might have been led to believe. Don’t stress about forgetting something!
Useful books to help plan your Finland winter trip
If you like to prep with a book or bring a guide with you, these are really useful picks.
📚 Lonely Planet Finland – A classic. Solid background info, useful city maps, and good cultural context if it’s your first visit.
📚 Lonely Planet Pocket Helsinki Ideal for a short stop in the capital, with maps and practical tips.
📚 Lapland Travel Guide: Year-Round Adventures From a Native Sámi Author by Johanna Ruska – Excellent resource written by someone who actually lives there. Great tips on destinations like Ylläs and Rovaniemi, with cultural context and responsible travel advice.
🧒 Books for kids
📖 Moominland Midwinter by Tove Jansson – Don’t forget, the Moomins are Finnish! This is a beautiful story that captures the quiet magic of winter in Finland. Great bedtime reading before or during your trip.
Why we skipped Santa and didn’t regret it
Tell anyone you’re heading to Finnish Lapland in winter with kids, and the first question is usually: “Are you going to see Santa?”
I’m not a grinch, but the truth is, why travel all the way to Lapland, only to visit a theme park version of the real thing; when the actual snowy forests, reindeer trails and wilderness cafés are literally just outside the gates?
It felt like missing the point entirely.
Instead, we spent our days hiking through forest tracks, spotting animal prints, warming up in tiny cafés with berry juice and pie, and watching the Northern Lights flicker to life over a frozen lake.
Our kids are 11 and 13 now, and yes, they’re probably past the peak Santa years. But even five years ago, I’d have picked this kind of trip over the canned Santa visits.
There’s nothing wrong with adding Santa if that’s what you’re looking for. But if you’re after a Lapland itinerary without Santa, built around fresh air, space and physical activity, you won’t miss him.
This winter itinerary made us feel alive (not just cold)
Winter trips can be difficult to plan. Too much time inside and everyone goes stir crazy, but bad weather can often scupper outdoor activity. This trip got the balance right.
This wasn’t some luxury escape or extreme Arctic expedition. It was a trip we planned ourselves, around school holidays, with normal winter outdoor gear and a sensible budget.
Yes, it was cold; sometimes really cold, but we had the right clothes and kept moving. That’s the key.
The kids weren’t glued to screens (much). We weren’t rushing from one paid activity to another. We walked, snowshoed, built fires, cooked in simple cabins, and saw the Northern Lights without a tour guide.
If you’re trying to piece together a Finland winter itinerary that doesn’t involve Santa, snowmobiles, or daily tours, it can feel like you’re on your own. The package tour crowd is loud; but it’s definitely not the only (or best!) way to see Lapland.
This trip is proof you can do it differently. We booked everything ourselves, used public transport, walked to most things, and focused on being outside. Do as the Finns do: move, explore, enjoy the outdoors. Nature’s free; and better than any theme park.
Add in a couple of well-chosen paid activities if you want (fat biking, husky sledding), but the real magic? It’s in the stillness, the trails, and the satisfaction of doing something properly different.
💰 How much did this trip to Finland cost?
We’re a family of four, and we spent just under £4,000 on this 9-day winter itinerary – including flights, accommodation, activities, transport, and gear hire. Here’s a rough breakdown of the biggest costs:
- ✈️ Flights: Around £675 to Helsinki and £575 home from Rovaniemi for four.
- 🏨 Accommodation:
– Helsinki hostel: £140 (1 night)
– Ylläs cabin: £640 (4 nights)
– Korvala log cabin: £575 (3 nights) - 🚆 Overnight train from Helsinki to Kolari (two interconnecting cabins with beds): £450
- 🚌 Bus from Kolari to Äkäslompolo: £55
- 🚖 Taxis in Lapland (incl. 2.5hr transfer): £465 total – expensive but still cheaper than car hire (which was over £1,000!)
- 🚲 Activities:
– Fat biking: £90 for 2 people for 3 hours
– Snowshoeing: £100 for a day of rental for all of us
– Ranch visit: €98 for 1 adult, 1 child (my only regret; overpriced for what it was)
– Private sauna at Korvala: €60
– Husky sledding: €420 – we didn’t do this due to extreme cold, but had budgeted for it
🎿 Free extras: We made the most of free XC skis, snowshoes, ice skates, and sleds at Korvala, and explored many groomed trails on foot. We also skipped any expensive tours or commercial experiences (no Santa packages here!).
🛒 Food: We mixed eating out with self-catering. A dinner out (main, a couple of beers, and maybe dessert) was about €120 for four. But it’s easy to cut this down with simple lunches at wilderness cafes, self catered dinners, and supermarket snacks. The supermarket was no more expensive than the UK in general. We had kitchenettes in every place we stayed.
🚗 And car hire? It would’ve cost over £1,000 — just for our Lapland section. Even with pricey taxis, we spent less and had no stress about driving on icy roads.
💡 How to make this trip cheaper
We travelled over New Year, which meant higher prices for flights and accommodation – but there are definitely ways to do this trip for less:
- Fly outside peak dates. If you avoid the school holiday crush (especially Christmas–New Year), you’ll find cheaper flights. February half-term or Easter offer better value – and often better snow and daylight hours, too.
- Book your trains early. The overnight sleeper to Lapland uses dynamic pricing. We booked fairly late, but others have snagged amazing fares by grabbing tickets as soon as they’re released.
- Self-cater your meals. We didn’t eat out every night, but could have saved by cooking for ourselves more. Supermarket prices were similar to the UK, and we didn’t find general food costs particularly high.
- Skip the expensive tours. Finland has a reputation for being pricey, but once you’re on the ground, nature is free. We snowshoed, hiked, and biked without a guide, thanks to groomed and marked trails. Add one or two special activities (like husky sledding) – but don’t feel like you have to book daily excursions.
- Avoid car hire. Finnish taxis are expensive, yes – but still cheaper than hiring a car (ours would have cost over £1,000). With careful planning, we stayed in locations where everything was walkable, and used taxis or public transport to fill the gaps.
Ready to plan your own Finland winter adventure?
If you’re curious about how to make this kind of trip work for your family; logistically, practically, and without blowing the budget, I’m busy busy behind the scenes writing all the posts that break it all down for you!
🔗 Here’s what’s already published:
🛌 Budget Family Accommodation in Helsinki: Aikatalo Hostel Stay with Kids
🔗 Coming soon:
- Things to do in a day in Helsinki with kids
- Taking the overnight train to Lapland from Helsinki (sometimes known as the “Santa Claus Express”)
- Review of our log cabin in Äkäslompolo
- Review of Korvala Log Cabins
Check back soon — or better yet, join the mailing list to get new posts straight to your inbox:
