Are you thinking about travelling from Vienna to Croatia by train?
When I planned our trip to Austria and the Dolomites, I mapped out a week long bike tour along the Drau Cycle Path – and managed to squeeze in not one, but two hut-to-hut hikes (one at the start of the bike route in the Italian Dolomites and one in the Lienz Dolomites in Austria).
However, despite Austria being a wonderful country, it does have one downside – a distinct lack of coastline.
I did some research and discovered the Vienna to Split sleeper train. The train station in Split, Croatia, is about 4 metres from the Adriatic and about 40 metres from the port, where ferries depart to a multitude of beautiful islands. I booked a cabin immediately, and in this blog post I’ll tell you all you need to know about our experience.
This article will answer all your key questions:
- Booking tickets
- Cabin options
- What to expect on board
- How to make the most of your journey
Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. Should you click on a link to purchase, it is at no extra cost to you, but I receive a small commission, which helps to support this blog!
The Vienna to Split Train Schedule
Picture this: boarding a cosy train in the heart of Austria’s elegant capital, Vienna, and waking up to the sparkling coastline of Croatia in Split. The Vienna to Croatia train offers a brilliant alternative to flying. It’s a relaxing and scenic way to travel, it saves a night of accommodation, and if you value the journey as much as the destination, this is the best way to travel!
The train actually starts in Bratislava, Slovakia at around 5:30 pm, before making its way to Vienna and continuing southward. (It departs Vienna around 7:00 pm). It stops at the Austrian towns Bruck an der Mur (~9:20 pm) and Graz (~10:00 pm), both of which are fantastically accessible with a local train from towns like Villach and Lienz. This makes it an ideal connection if you’ve just been cycling the Drau Cycle Path or hiking in the stunning Lienz Dolomites.
The train departs three times a week in the summer season (from approximately the end of April to mid October), on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday.
It arrives in Split at around 10:00 am the following morning.
Why Choose the Vienna to Split Train?
The sleeper train experience is an adventure in itself. Instead of writing off a day (because let’s be honest, even if it’s a short flight, it usually does take a whole day once all queues and the travel to and from airports are taken into account), you’ll travel overnight and wake up refreshed with a whole new destination to explore.
You’ll avoid the boredom and stress of airports, skip the hassle of early morning starts, and travel sustainably.
Split and its nearby islands have plenty to offer. From ancient Roman ruins to crystal clear waters, beautiful towns and lively markets, there’s something for everyone. The train itself is a practical and comfortable way to travel overnight – you’ll settle in for the evening and wake up in Croatia, ready to explore.
Booking Tickets on the Vienna to Croatia Train
I recommend booking tickets on Rail Europe. It’s a user-friendly platform that allows you to search for and book trains across multiple European countries in one place.
With Rail Europe, you can easily compare routes, find the best fares, and reserve seats in advance.
Using my affiliate link supports this blog, so thank you for considering it!
Most tickets are open for bookings 180 days in advance. To secure your spot, it’s best to book your tickets early, especially during peak travel months. Pricing is dynamic, so cheaper fares sell out quickly.
Seat, couchette and sleeper reservations are compulsory.
When you search for a train from Vienna to Split on Rail Europe you’ll get the nearest train to the date you’ve searched for, and possibly the next one too. Check that you select the actual date you need!
Click on the drop down arrow next to the automatically selected cheapest ticket type (see above) – which will be a seat (called “Second”) – you definitely don’t want this, or all the advantages of the night train will fly out of the window!
You want to choose one of the fares with a little bed icon next to them – these are all couchette or sleeper tickets (see below for an explanation of the difference). The best value fares are called “Sparschiene Inkl. Reservierung“. These tickets are limited, and when they’re gone, they’re gone. They’re great value, but nonflexible. You’ll see a little pop-up with “Fare conditions” when you select each fare. “Sparschiene Komfort” offers more flexibility, and “Standard-Ticket” offers full flexibility.
Don’t choose “Ladies Only” unless you actually are ladies only!
Cabin Options: Finding Your Ideal Accommodation
The Vienna to Croatia train offers three options to suit all budgets and comfort levels. Unless you’re on a tight budget and enjoy sleep deprivation, I wouldn’t recommend the seats (“Second”).
In the sleeper compartments and the couchettes, berths are sold individually so if you’re travelling alone, you’ll be sharing with fellow passengers.
Couchettes
Couchettes are simple, shared compartments accommodating 4 to 6 passengers, with simple padded bunk-style beds, each complete with fresh blankets, sheets and a pillow. Couchettes are a great option for families or groups of friends travelling together. Couchette bunk cabins convert to private sitting cabins for daytime travelling.
Each traveller gets a bottle of mineral water and a simple breakfast (tea or coffee and a roll with butter and jam) included in the price.
Toilets and bathrooms are located at each end of each coach.
If you’re an odd number of passengers, be aware that the spare bunk in your compartment may well be occupied by a stranger unless you choose the exclusive compartment option I mention above.
If you’re 3 people or fewer though, I’d go for the Sleeper option:
Sleeper Cabins
Sleeper cabins come in 1, 2 or 3 bed compartments. Just like couchettes, they convert to private sitting compartments for daytime use.
They are an upgrade from the couchettes because they have fewer beds, and each compartment has its own washbasin. Having said that, the washbasin makes things pretty cramped unless you’re all lying down, so although it’s quite handy not having to go to the end of the carriage to brush your teeth, I don’t think it’s worth paying loads extra for. They obviously work really well for families of up to 3, but not for families of more than 3.
Sleeper cabins also include a bottle of water, fresh blankets sheets and pillow and a simple breakfast.
Seat Numbers Explained: Same Compartment, Different Sequence
Be aware that berths aren’t numbered sequentially, so if you’re a family or group looking at your ticket numbers, it might look like you’re not all in the same compartment. On most trains, berth numbers aren’t consecutive for compartments where less than 6 beds are in use.
If you’ve booked together, you’ll be put in the same compartment by default, so don’t worry.
If there are enough of you to fill the compartment, you can be sure of exclusive use. I recommend choosing a compartment that fits your group – so a 4 berth couchette for a 4 person family, or a 3 berth sleeper for a 3 person family.
If you can’t quite fill a compartment with your party, but you want to be sure of sole occupancy (e.g. if you’re a family of 5), you can make your compartment private by adding an extra child passenger to your booking – Rail Europe have some information about this here – they call it the “Phantom Child” technique 👻.
The Man in Seat 61 has more reassuring information on berth numbering here.
The Journey: What to Expect Onboard the Vienna to Croatia Train
Boarding the train
In Vienna, if you have a ticket for a sleeper compartment (NOT a couchette), you can use the ÖBB Lounge (entrance on main concourse at Vienna Hauptbahnhof – which means main station) for up to 1.5 hours before departure. It offers free WiFi & complimentary tea, coffee, beer & snacks. There’s also one at Graz Hauptbahnhof if you’re boarding there.
There’s no formal check-in for the train. Just get to the platform and find your carriage. A train attendant will either check your ticket at the door and point you in the right direction for your compartment, or you’ll find your compartment on your own and the attendant will check your tickets once they get round to you.
Sometimes the attendants will take your tickets or rail pass, so you won’t be disturbed by inspections during the night. Your tickets are returned to you before arrival the next day.
Border checks within the Schengen area are rare so passports aren’t usually collected.
Eating & Drinking
There is no restaurant car on the train, but the train attendants do sell a selection of hot and cold drinks (including beer and wine) and snacks. Beware that the options can be a bit limited, especially later in the evening.
I would highly recommend having dinner before boarding the train, or bring a picnic onboard – you can pick up some sandwiches, fruit, and a small bottle of wine or juice before departure.
A simple breakfast (tea or coffee and a roll with butter and jam) will be served to everyone in the sleeper compartments and couchettes.
Converting the Seats into Beds
You have to ask the attendant (there’s one per carriage) to convert the seats into beds for you. You’ll need to let them know when you’re ready, especially if you might be going to sleep earlier than the average adult.
If you board the train at a later stop, the compartment might already be converted into bed mode.
If you’re in a couchette, you have to make your bed with the sheets and blankets provided. In a sleeper cabin, the attendant will usually do this for you.
How Much Luggage Can I Take?
You take all your bags into the compartment with you, and there are no size or weight restrictions. There’s room for some luggage under the bottom berths, and quite a lot of space at the level of the top bunks where there’s a recess over the cabin door. There’s also the floor, but leave space for night time toilet goers (🙋).
Packing Tips
Make sure your essentials like toiletries and comfortable clothes to sleep in are accessible at the top of your luggage. There’s nothing worse than having to unpack your whole bag in a tiny sleeper compartment (I’ve been there).
Don’t forget earplugs and an eye mask if you’re a light sleeper.
Pack some snacks and entertainment, such as a book, games or downloaded podcasts, to pass the time before bedtime and after waking up.
How Long is the Journey on the Vienna to Split Sleeper Train?
The journey takes approximately 15 hours, making it the perfect overnight trip.
By the time you’ve enjoyed a good night’s sleep, you’ll have plenty of time to get up and packed, and enjoy the Croatian coastline views from the train windows before you find yourself pulling into Split’s station, just a short stroll from the Old Town and the waterfront.
Are there any downsides to the Vienna to Croatia train?
A few, but not enough to put me off!
- Sometimes the compartments can be quite warm. They have air conditioning which is adjustable, but this doesn’t always work brilliantly.
- The compartments are pretty compact when the seats are in bed mode, so don’t expect a lot of floor space. Once the seats have been converted to beds, there’s basically space for one person at a time on the floor; so you need to plan toilet trips and teeth brushing accordingly!
- My husband often finds the bunks a bit firm, and the train movement not brilliant for his sleep, but he manages fine. I tend to sleep pretty well, and the kids sleep like absolute logs!
- When we took this train, it departed a bit later than scheduled, but by the time we reached Croatia it was a couple of hours delayed. I don’t know how common this is, but I suspect it’s not rare. I do advise that you give yourself a bit of a buffer when it comes to onward plans. We jumped on a ferry from Split to the island of Vis that afternoon, and I was pleased that I’d booked a mid-afternoon ferry so we didn’t have to worry about the train being late.
- Be aware that children under 6 go free, but then they’re not allocated a bed. If you want them to have their own bed (there’s no way I would have shared a berth with my kids at any age if I’d wanted any sleep 😆) you should enter their age as 7, so they pay the child fare and are allocated a berth.
Arriving in Split: A Gateway to Croatia’s Coastline
When the Vienna to Croatia train rolls into Split in the morning, you’re minutes from the historic Old Town, with its Roman ruins, charming alleys, and buzzing cafes.
The easiest place to leave luggage is in the luggage storage lockers in Split station. When we arrived, they were all full up (it’s easy to tell whether they’re full or empty as there’s a red or green strip showing on the locker door).
We walked up the road a little towards the port – and found multiple manned luggage storage options. Look for a sign saying “Garderoba“. They were more expensive than the lockers, as they charged per bag, but it was worth it – we had a couple of hours in which to explore Split and have lunch before boarding our ferry to Vis.
Diocletian’s Palace is a must-visit, and the Riva promenade offers stunning sea views. Split was busy (too busy, to be honest), and the cruise ships moored in the harbour were definitely part of the problem! However, we still enjoyed a couple of hours wandering through the old town, exploring its narrow streets, soaking up the lively atmosphere, and grabbing a bite to eat before heading to the ferry. We ate lunch at Bepa!, overlooking an 800 year old square – which I would recommend.
From Split, it’s easy to explore the Dalmatian coastline, with ferries connecting you to islands like Hvar, Brač, and Vis. We jumped on the ferry to Vis at 3:00 pm the same day we arrived.
The ferry to Vis (air-conditioned inside, cool and breezy on deck) was a much needed escape from Split’s heat and humidity!
And Vis turned out to be the perfect island for us. It was big enough to keep things interesting, lively but not overcrowded, and had a good mix of shops and supermarkets for self-catering. The sea was incredible for swimming, the beaches were lovely (though typically pebbly – Croatia isn’t big on sand!), and a boat trip around the island was a highlight, taking us to stunning spots like the Blue Cave and Stiniva Beach.
Why an Overnight Train is Better than Flying
Travelling by overnight train is not just a more sustainable choice; it’s also a far more enjoyable one.
Instead of enduring cramped plane seats and airport queues, you’ll have a comfortable space to relax, sleep, and socialise.
You’ll save on a night’s accommodation, and there’s something rather romantic about falling asleep to the gentle rhythm of a train.
Plus, you’ll arrive right in the heart of Split, with no need for airport transfers.
Where to stay in Split
We didn’t stay in Split, but these hotels and apartments have come highly recommended. All offer a good base for exploring the historic Old Town and are not far from stunning sea views. Split isn’t cheap in the summer, but there are a few options here to suit different travel styles and budgets.
Apartment Amazing View Very close to the train station, the Old Town and the ferry port. The apartment comes with 2 bedrooms (a double bed and 2 singles), a bathroom, a fully equipped kitchen, and a terrace with sea views.
Hotel Camera A stylish and welcoming hotel tucked away in a quiet location near the Old Town. Family rooms are available, making it a great choice for those visiting with kids. The peaceful setting is ideal for relaxing after a day of exploring Split’s bustling centre.
Deluxe Collection Hotel Kastel Offering family rooms, friendly service and breakfast, this hotel caters well to those travelling with children. Its location provides easy access to Split’s main attractions, while the accommodation ensures a touch of luxury for a comfortable stay.
Apartment David A centrally located self catering apartment, just two minutes from the town centre and walking distance to local beaches making it an excellent base for both sightseeing and relaxing. Great for families looking for flexibility, with 2 bedrooms and a washing machine.
Miraval Luxury Rooms – Offering modern accommodation (including quadruple rooms) and located in the historic centre of Split, these rooms include a fridge and an electric kettle. Guests at the Miraval Luxury Rooms can enjoy a continental breakfast served daily at a nearby cafe. A bicycle rental service is also available.
Hotel Agava Split – 700 metres from Diocletian’s Palace and 300 metres from Republic Square, this characterful hotel offers family rooms, continental and Italian breakfast options, and an outdoor pool at a good value price point.
Where to stay on Vis
We did stay on Vis and stayed in a great apartment in a fantastic location between Vis Town and Kut. This is no longer available but the first apartment on this list is right next door. It was an easy walk to several beaches, as well as the shops and bakeries in both areas, making self-catering a breeze. It was a great spot for exploring the island while still feeling relaxed and tucked away from the busier areas.
It was also close to the island’s outdoor cinema, which overlooks the sea and shows a mix of recent films—alongside regular screenings of Mamma Mia 2, which was filmed here!
Apartment Marija With 2 air-conditioned bedrooms offering a double bed and 2 singles, this apartment features 2 bedrooms, a kitchen with a dishwasher and views of the sea from the patio as well as a barbecue and a garden. It’s located within walking distance of Vis town and Kut, and is close to a variety of swimming spots, and offers fantastic value.
Cunka House In a quiet location in Kut, this apartment offers 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and an extra sofa bed, so great for larger families. There’s also a terrace with sea views.
Villa Tangerine Vis A 3 bedroom villa in a great location in central Vis town, this larger villa boasts a garden, private pool, balcony, and an outdoor dining area.
Art Villa Mara This 4 bed villa is a bit of a splurge but it sleeps 8 and features an infinity pool and a garden, and an excellent location. For guests with children, the villa features outdoor play equipment.
Pool Villa Domina If you really want to get away from it all and be surrounded by nature, this beautiful farm house villa is newly renovated, sleeps up to 10 and has sea views, a garden and a wonderful swimming pool. It’s far from any towns, so you’ll need to hire a car on Vis to stay here. There are hiking trails nearby.